Dicentra 'Cupid'

Where To Plant

Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.

How To Plant

Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring.  Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line.  If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation. 

Dicentra 'Formosa'

Where To Plant

Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.

How To Plant

Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring.  Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line.  If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation. 

Dicentra 'Luxuriant'

Where To Plant

Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.

How To Plant

Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring.  Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line.  If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation. 

Dicentra 'Valentine'

Where To Plant

Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.

How To Plant

Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring.  Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line.  If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation. 

Echinacea 'White Swan'

Epimedium 'Rubrum'

Epimedium 'Sulphureum'

Geranium 'Biokovo'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Brookside'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'End Wargrave Pink'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Johnson's Blue'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Kashmir Purple'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Max Frei'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'New Hampshire'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Patricia'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Striatum'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Geranium 'Tiny Monster'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

Gladiolus 'Fairytale Pink'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus 'Mon Amour'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus 'Orange Sun'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Albus'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Charm'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Charming Beauty'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Las Vegas'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Robinetta'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

Gypsophila 'Bristol Fairy'

white

Hardy Hibiscus 'Luna Pink Swirl'

Hardy Hibiscus 'Luna Red'

Hardy Hibiscus 'Luna Rose'

Hemerocallis 'Black Eyed Susan'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'Catherine Woodbury'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'Little Business'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'Night Beacon'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'Pardon Me'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'Prairie Blue Eyes'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'South Seas'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'White Temptation'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Hemerocallis 'Wineberry Candy'

Soil and Preparation:

Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing. 

Planting:

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space.  Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.

Watering:

Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings. 

Fertilization During Growing:

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.

Horseradish

Upon Arrival:

Remove horseradish roots from shipping box. Do not water the root. Store horseradish roots in a cool dry area until they can be planted.

Soil and Preparation:

Choose a location in full sun with rich composted and well-drained soil.

Planting and Harvesting:

Plant roots on a slight angle 4"-6" deep and 12"-18" apart. Water frequently. Dig plants when the leaves have died back either in the fall or the spring.

Hosta 'Antioch'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Banana Kid'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Blue Angel'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Bressingham Blue'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Earth Angel'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'First Blush'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Fragrant Dream'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Francis Williams'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Hosta 'Halcyon'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.