Canna
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
In the spring, after the last frost, plant bulbs twice as deep at their height, or around 2 inches, and spaced about 6 inches apart. Water well when finished planting.
Soil:
Prefers well-drained, organically rich soil with consistent moisture.
Sun:
Prefers full sun, especially hot afternoon sun.
More Details
Planting:
In the spring, after the last frost, plant bulbs twice as deep at their height, or around 2 inches, and spaced about 6 inches apart. Water well when finished planting.
Soil:
Prefers well-drained, organically rich soil with consistent moisture.
Sun:
Prefers full sun, especially hot afternoon sun.
More Details
Planting:
In the spring, after the last frost, plant bulbs twice as deep at their height, or around 2 inches, and spaced about 6 inches apart. Water well when finished planting.
Soil:
Prefers well-drained, organically rich soil with consistent moisture.
Sun:
Prefers full sun, especially hot afternoon sun.
More Details
How To Plant
Soaking plants overnight or at least several hours prior to planting will do wonders for their growth. In the first year, keep them watered as needed. Do not plant too deep. The buds of the fern need to be just below the surface.
Where To Plant
Filtered shade is often the best, but many varieties can handle full sun.
Fertilizer
Do not use fertilizer on native plants. Fertilized ferns and wildflowers will look burnt and dried out but in fact it is a result of fertilization.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
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Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
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Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
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Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
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Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
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Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
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smaller stalks throughout, long thick petioles Stems are shorter and more slender, produces few seed stalks. *Start in a cold frame
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Thick red stalks. Excellent for home gardeners. Vigorous, Deep red petioles, produces few to no seed stalks. *Start in a cold frame
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How To Plant
Dig hole 1/3 larger than root system or bulb and make the hole 2-3 " deep. Add a thin layer of base soil back in the bottom of the hole.
Root systems (rhizomes) like Trillium and Virginia Blue Bells should be placed on their side, but bulbs and corms should be placed
upright in the hole so that the pointed end is upwards. Fill with soil and water thoroughly.
Watering
Water every three to four days for the first week if it does not rain.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
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Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
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Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
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Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
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