Canna
Canna
Pot Lilies
Bleeding Heart
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Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
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One of the most popular varietes, performs well in most climates. Cascade is a dual purpose hop; used both as an aroma hop and a bittering hop. Producing an abundance of cones and trailing bines, florist desire the unique texture that hops adds to floral arrangements.
Planting:
Use average, medium moisture, well-draining soil.
Light:
Prefers full sun to part shade
Watering:
Prefers moist soil but has some tolerance for drought.
Care in the Fall:
Plants die to the ground each winter, but perennial roots survive to send up new growth each spring. Stems may be pruned to the ground in autumn after a hard frost.
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Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details