Canna
Canna
Caladium Fancy Leaf 'Brandywine'
Caladium
Dryopteris Goldieana 'Goldie's Giant Wood'
Goldie's Giant Wood Fern
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Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in medium to wet humusy soil. Also grows well along a moist shoreline, since it can tolerate shallow standing water.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
Naturalizing
Will spread slowly in clumps to easily naturalize in an area with good conditions.
More Details
Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States
Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved
Avg Time Avg Time Avg Plant Ht Climatic
of Planting of Flower In. Cm. Zone
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 3 and 4
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 5 and 6
Mar-April Jul-Aug 20-30 50-70 7 and 8
Sep-Feb Jan-Jun 20-30 50-70 9 and 10
Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or
size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.
Forcing Time
Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.
Storage After Arrival
Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE
Planting
Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.
Light
If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.
Watering
Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.
Fertilizer
After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.
More Details
Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States
Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved
Avg Time Avg Time Avg Plant Ht Climatic
of Planting of Flower In. Cm. Zone
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 3 and 4
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 5 and 6
Mar-April Jul-Aug 20-30 50-70 7 and 8
Sep-Feb Jan-Jun 20-30 50-70 9 and 10
Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or
size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.
Forcing Time
Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.
Storage After Arrival
Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE
Planting
Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.
Light
If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.
Watering
Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.
Fertilizer
After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.
More Details
Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States
Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved
Avg Time Avg Time Avg Plant Ht Climatic
of Planting of Flower In. Cm. Zone
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 3 and 4
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 5 and 6
Mar-April Jul-Aug 20-30 50-70 7 and 8
Sep-Feb Jan-Jun 20-30 50-70 9 and 10
Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or
size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.
Forcing Time
Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.
Storage After Arrival
Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE
Planting
Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.
Light
If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.
Watering
Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.
Fertilizer
After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
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Location
Vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Location
Vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Location
Vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
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Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
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Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
