Calla
Calla
Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Zantedeschia Aethiopica 'Aethiopica'
Calla Aethiopica - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
We carry 347 plants that match your search request. We've included all matches below. Click on any plant to learn additional details.
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsForcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More DetailsPlanting:
In average, medium moisture, well-drained, preferably sandy soil, plant bulbs about 3-4” deep and 4-6” apart in the fall.
Light:
Full sun to part shade, but best in sun-dappled part shade. Can tolerate shade.
Naturalization:
Naturalizes well by both bulb offsets and self-seeding in optimum growing conditions and can hybridize with plants of Hyancinthoides non-scripta (English bluebells) if planted near each other, resulting in different forms appearing through self-seeding.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas. Tolerates summer drought but should be kept well-watered during times of growth.
Planting
Plant bulbs 5 inches deep, spaced 1 inch apart.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas. Tolerates summer drought but should be kept well-watered during times of growth.
Planting
Plant bulbs 5 inches deep, spaced 1 inch apart.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas. Tolerates summer drought but should be kept well-watered during times of growth.
Planting
Plant bulbs 5 inches deep, spaced 1 inch apart.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting
Plant with the neck of the bulb exposed, 6-12 inches apart. Will naturalizze easily. If planting in a container, choose a large vessel to accomodate extensive roots.
Soil
Prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil. Does well in areas with regular water nearby such as near a stream bank. Soil can be dry when plant is dormant.
Sun
Plant in full sun to part shade, but flowers best in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant with the neck of the bulb exposed, 6-12 inches apart. Will naturalizze easily. If planting in a container, choose a large vessel to accomodate extensive roots.
Soil
Prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil. Does well in areas with regular water nearby such as near a stream bank. Soil can be dry when plant is dormant.
Sun
Plant in full sun to part shade, but flowers best in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant with the neck of the bulb exposed, 6-12 inches apart. Will naturalizze easily. If planting in a container, choose a large vessel to accomodate extensive roots.
Soil
Prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil. Does well in areas with regular water nearby such as near a stream bank. Soil can be dry when plant is dormant.
Sun
Plant in full sun to part shade, but flowers best in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant onion sets directly into the ground, 1 to 2 inches deep, 2 to 3 inches apart. Once growing starts, thin to a 3 to 4 inch spacing. Thinned onions are tender and green - great to use as green onions.
Soil
Prefers, loose, well-drained, fertile soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.
Light
Requires full sun.
Care
Onions will benefit from 3 fertilizer applications in the growing season - one 40 to 60 days after planting, one mid-season, and one 4 weeks before harvest.
Harvest/Storage
Harvest when tops are wilted. Cure after harvest by laying out to dry in a shaded location for 2 to 4 weeks, until the outer skin is papery thin. Store in a cool (32 to 40 degrees), dry area in well-ventilated containers.
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details