Dryopteris Goldieana 'Goldie's Giant Wood'
Goldie's Giant Wood Fern
Dryopteris Goldieana 'Goldie's Giant Wood'
Goldie's Giant Wood Fern
Lilies Double Asiatic 'Red Twin'
Outdoor Lilies
Large Flowering Glad
We carry 346 plants that match your search request. We've included all matches below. Click on any plant to learn additional details.
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Soil Preparation and Planting
Best grown in fertile, humusy, organically rich, medium to wet soils in part shade or filtered sun. In general, green types can take higher light levels; dark-leaved ones need shade. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently 50-60° F, plant each bulb 6-8" deep and 2-4 feet apart. Water generously.
Fertilization
Fertilize Colocasia every three weeks during fall and winter. Use a liquid plant food with a balanced N-P-K ratio such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. Water the fertilizer deeply into the soil immediately after application.
Water
Elephant ears are high water plants. Water as needed to keep the soil consistently moist, and don't allow the soil to become dry. Colocasia likes wet soil and is even appropriate for planting next to a pond, or in water up to 6 inches deep. Check the soil often if the bulbs are planted in sunlight.
Fall Care and Storage
Dig Colocasia bulbs after the first frost in autumn if you live in a climate with cold winters. Cut the foliage down to 2 to 4 inches before cutting. Allow the bulbs to dry for a day, and then place the bulbs in a box of wood shavings or peat moss. Store the box where the temperatures don't drop below 45°F.
More Details
Caladiums require a warm, moist soil. A minimum of soil temperature of 78-80 F is preferred. If planted too early in spring, cool soil temperatures will cause tubers to rot before they sprout. They can be started indoors in moist peat moss or potting soil in containers such as a shallow flat or flower pot. Barely cover tubers with soil and place the container in a warm germination room with bright light. Tubers should be started indoors approximately four weeks before planting outdoors.
More Details
Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F. In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix. Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures: Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.
More Details
Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F. In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix. Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures: Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.
More Details
Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F. In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix. Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures: Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.
More Details
Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F. In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix. Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures: Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.
More Details
Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F. In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix. Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures: Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.
More Details
Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F. In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix. Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures: Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.
More Details
Soil Preparation and Planting
Best grown in fertile, humusy, organically rich, medium to wet soils in part shade or filtered sun. In general, green types can take higher light levels; dark-leaved ones need shade. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently 50-60° F, plant each bulb 6-8" deep and 2-4 feet apart. Water generously.
Fertilization
Fertilize Colocasia every three weeks during fall and winter. Use a liquid plant food with a balanced N-P-K ratio such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. Water the fertilizer deeply into the soil immediately after application.
Water
Elephant ears are high water plants. Water as needed to keep the soil consistently moist, and don't allow the soil to become dry. Colocasia likes wet soil and is even appropriate for planting next to a pond, or in water up to 6 inches deep. Check the soil often if the bulbs are planted in sunlight.
Fall Care and Storage
Dig Colocasia bulbs after the first frost in autumn if you live in a climate with cold winters. Cut the foliage down to 2 to 4 inches before cutting. Allow the bulbs to dry for a day, and then place the bulbs in a box of wood shavings or peat moss. Store the box where the temperatures don't drop below 45°F.
More Details
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
More Details
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
More Details
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
More Details
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
More Details
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details