Large Flowering Glad
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Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
How To Plant
Dig hole 1/3 larger than root system or bulb and make the hole 2-3 " deep. Add a thin layer of base soil back in the bottom of the hole.
Root systems (rhizomes) like Trillium and Virginia Blue Bells should be placed on their side, but bulbs and corms should be placed
upright in the hole so that the pointed end is upwards. Fill with soil and water thoroughly.
Watering
Water every three to four days for the first week if it does not rain.
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Soil and Preparation:
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting:
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
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Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
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Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
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Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
More Details
Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)
Planting
Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.
Light
Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.
Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems
Temperature
Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.
Watering
Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.
Fertilization
Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17) can result in better plant balance.
Height Control
Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.
Disease Prevention & Control
Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:
Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”
1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)
2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)
3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)
4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)
Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:
1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L
2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)
3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.
Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.
Insects
Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).
Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots
Storage After Arrival
Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.
Potting Medium
Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).
Watering
Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.
Light
Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.
Fertilizer
Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.
Marketing
Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.
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Deciduous and evergreen tuberous-rooted plants with strap-shaped leaves. Clusters of white funnel-shaped flowers.
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Where To Plant
For best growth, plant convallaria in well drainging soil where they will receive light to moderate shade. Amend soil with compost or
other organic material to improve drainage.
How To Plant
Plant roots so that the tops just barely poke above the soil. Water generously to settle soil around the roots.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
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