Calla
Calla
Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Zantedeschia Aethiopica 'Aethiopica'
Calla Aethiopica - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
We carry 394 plants that match your search request. We've included all matches below. Click on any plant to learn additional details.
Location
Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a
well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted
vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Location
Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a
well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted
vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Location
Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a
well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted
vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Location
Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a
well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted
vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Location
Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.
Soil Preparation
Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a
well-balanced liquid fertilizer.
Support
The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted
vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.
More Details
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.
Planting:
Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.
Watering:
Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.
Fertilization During Growing:
Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs. We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.
Weed and Insect Control:
Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.
Digging Corms (Bulbs):
If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks. During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.
Corm Storage:
After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
More Details
Upon Arrival:
Remove horseradish roots from shipping box. Do not water the root. Store horseradish roots in a cool dry area until they can be planted.
Soil and Preparation:
Choose a location in full sun with rich composted and well-drained soil.
Planting and Harvesting:
Plant roots on a slight angle 4"-6" deep and 12"-18" apart. Water frequently. Dig plants when the leaves have died back either in the fall or the spring.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil:
Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.
Planting:
Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.
If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter.
Light:
Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
