Hippeastrum Southern Hemisphere 'Amadeus'
Christmas Forcing Amaryllis - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Hippeastrum Southern Hemisphere 'Amadeus'
Christmas Forcing Amaryllis - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Zantedeschia Aethiopica 'Aethiopica'
Calla Aethiopica - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Calla
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Soil and Preparation:
Daylilies flower best when planted in full sun (6 hours/day), with moist, yet well-drained soil. Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and in a wide range of soil pHs. Clay soils can be improved by the addition of compost, humus or peat moss, or sand which will help make it more friable. Sandy soil will benefit from the addition of compost, humus or peat moss which will serve to increase water retention. Amend the soil withcompost before planting. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart and plant so the crown is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Water well and mulch with bark or straw to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from growing.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, without cramming it into the space. Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is about one inch below the surface of the ground, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots until the hole is nearly full. Press the soil down around the roots, without covering any green of the plant. Leave a slight depression, or water reservoir, around the plant, about 1/2" deep.
Watering:
Watering is most important in spring when the plants are making scapes and buds, and in the summer during the bloom season. Daylilies benefit more from deep watering, which reaches 8 to 10 inches into the soil, than from a succession of brief, surface waterings.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost.
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Upon Arrival:
Remove horseradish roots from shipping box. Do not water the root. Store horseradish roots in a cool dry area until they can be planted.
Soil and Preparation:
Choose a location in full sun with rich composted and well-drained soil.
Planting and Harvesting:
Plant roots on a slight angle 4"-6" deep and 12"-18" apart. Water frequently. Dig plants when the leaves have died back either in the fall or the spring.
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Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.
Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.
Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.
Planting
Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter.
Light
Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
More Details
Planting
Plant corms 5 inches deep, with spacing of 2-3 inches. Can also grow in containers with up to 6 corms in a 6 inch pot. Keep moist during growing season, but allow dry out after plants stop blooming in mid-summer. Corms can be dug up and overwintered in planting medium in a cool, dry area.
Soil
Best grown in well-draining soil with a high amount of organic matter.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States
Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved
Avg Time Avg Time Avg Plant Ht Climatic
of Planting of Flower In. Cm. Zone
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 3 and 4
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 5 and 6
Mar-April Jul-Aug 20-30 50-70 7 and 8
Sep-Feb Jan-Jun 20-30 50-70 9 and 10
Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or
size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.
Forcing Time
Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.
Storage After Arrival
Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE
Planting
Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.
Light
If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.
Watering
Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.
Fertilizer
After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.
More Details
Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States
Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved
Avg Time Avg Time Avg Plant Ht Climatic
of Planting of Flower In. Cm. Zone
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 3 and 4
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 5 and 6
Mar-April Jul-Aug 20-30 50-70 7 and 8
Sep-Feb Jan-Jun 20-30 50-70 9 and 10
Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or
size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.
Forcing Time
Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.
Storage After Arrival
Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE
Planting
Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.
Light
If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.
Watering
Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.
Fertilizer
After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.
More Details
Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States
Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved
Avg Time Avg Time Avg Plant Ht Climatic
of Planting of Flower In. Cm. Zone
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 3 and 4
May-June Aug-Oct 20-30 50-70 5 and 6
Mar-April Jul-Aug 20-30 50-70 7 and 8
Sep-Feb Jan-Jun 20-30 50-70 9 and 10
Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or
size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.
Forcing Time
Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.
Storage After Arrival
Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE
Planting
Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.
Light
If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.
Watering
Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.
Fertilizer
After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.
More Details
Planting
Can plant in either early spring or early fall in an area that provides consistently moist soil. Add peat moss to the soil when planting. Water more frequently when first planted.
Soil
Grows well in damp soil, in marshy areas, and along water features.
Light
Prefers shade to part shade.
Care
If soil is nutrient-rich, no fertilizer is needed, but would benefit from a layer of compost each year.
More Details
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!
Planting
In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:
For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot
12/14 cm. 3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
14/16 cm. 1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
16/18 cm. 1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Temperature
Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.
Ventilation
Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.
Plant Growth Retardants
Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.
Marketing and Storage
Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.
According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.
More Details
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!
Planting
In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:
For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot
12/14 cm. 3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
14/16 cm. 1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
16/18 cm. 1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Temperature
Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.
Ventilation
Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.
Plant Growth Retardants
Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.
Marketing and Storage
Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.
According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.
More Details
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!
Planting
In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:
For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot
12/14 cm. 3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
14/16 cm. 1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
16/18 cm. 1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Temperature
Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.
Ventilation
Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.
Plant Growth Retardants
Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.
Marketing and Storage
Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.
According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.