Cranesbill
Caladium Fancy Leaf 'Brandywine'
Caladium
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Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsPlanting:
In average, medium moisture, well-drained, preferably sandy soil, plant bulbs about 3-4” deep and 4-6” apart in the fall.
Light:
Full sun to part shade, but best in sun-dappled part shade. Can tolerate shade.
Naturalization:
Naturalizes well by both bulb offsets and self-seeding in optimum growing conditions and can hybridize with plants of Hyancinthoides non-scripta (English bluebells) if planted near each other, resulting in different forms appearing through self-seeding.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas. Tolerates summer drought but should be kept well-watered during times of growth.
Planting
Plant bulbs 5 inches deep, spaced 1 inch apart.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas. Tolerates summer drought but should be kept well-watered during times of growth.
Planting
Plant bulbs 5 inches deep, spaced 1 inch apart.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Soil
Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas. Tolerates summer drought but should be kept well-watered during times of growth.
Planting
Plant bulbs 5 inches deep, spaced 1 inch apart.
Light
Grow in full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting
Plant with the neck of the bulb exposed, 6-12 inches apart. Will naturalizze easily. If planting in a container, choose a large vessel to accomodate extensive roots.
Soil
Prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil. Does well in areas with regular water nearby such as near a stream bank. Soil can be dry when plant is dormant.
Sun
Plant in full sun to part shade, but flowers best in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant with the neck of the bulb exposed, 6-12 inches apart. Will naturalizze easily. If planting in a container, choose a large vessel to accomodate extensive roots.
Soil
Prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil. Does well in areas with regular water nearby such as near a stream bank. Soil can be dry when plant is dormant.
Sun
Plant in full sun to part shade, but flowers best in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant with the neck of the bulb exposed, 6-12 inches apart. Will naturalizze easily. If planting in a container, choose a large vessel to accomodate extensive roots.
Soil
Prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil. Does well in areas with regular water nearby such as near a stream bank. Soil can be dry when plant is dormant.
Sun
Plant in full sun to part shade, but flowers best in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More DetailsPlanting
Plant onion sets directly into the ground, 1 to 2 inches deep, 2 to 3 inches apart. Once growing starts, thin to a 3 to 4 inch spacing. Thinned onions are tender and green - great to use as green onions.
Soil
Prefers, loose, well-drained, fertile soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.
Light
Requires full sun.
Care
Onions will benefit from 3 fertilizer applications in the growing season - one 40 to 60 days after planting, one mid-season, and one 4 weeks before harvest.
Harvest/Storage
Harvest when tops are wilted. Cure after harvest by laying out to dry in a shaded location for 2 to 4 weeks, until the outer skin is papery thin. Store in a cool (32 to 40 degrees), dry area in well-ventilated containers.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.
Planting
Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.
Watering
Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.
Fertilizer
Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.
Light Requirements
Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.
Height Control for Pots
Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.
Insects
Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.
Marketing
Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.
Planting
Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.
Watering
Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.
Fertilizer
Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.
Light Requirements
Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.
Height Control for Pots
Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.
Insects
Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.
Marketing
Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.
Planting
Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.
Watering
Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.
Fertilizer
Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.
Light Requirements
Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.
Height Control for Pots
Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.
Insects
Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.
Marketing
Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.
Planting
Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.
Watering
Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.
Fertilizer
Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.
Light Requirements
Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.
Height Control for Pots
Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.
Insects
Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.
Marketing
Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.
More DetailsStorage After Arrival
Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.
Planting
Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.
Watering
Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.
Fertilizer
Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.
Light Requirements
Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.
Height Control for Pots
Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.
Insects
Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.
Marketing
Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More DetailsSoil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details