Bleeding Heart
Canna
We carry 103 plants that match your search request. We've included all matches below. Click on any plant to learn additional details.
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Planting:
In average, medium moisture, well-drained, preferably sandy soil, plant bulbs about 3-4” deep and 4-6” apart in the fall.
Light:
Full sun to part shade, but best in sun-dappled part shade. Can tolerate shade.
Naturalization:
Naturalizes well by both bulb offsets and self-seeding in optimum growing conditions and can hybridize with plants of Hyancinthoides non-scripta (English bluebells) if planted near each other, resulting in different forms appearing through self-seeding.
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Planting
Plant onion sets directly into the ground, 1 to 2 inches deep, 2 to 3 inches apart. Once growing starts, thin to a 3 to 4 inch spacing. Thinned onions are tender and green - great to use as green onions.
Soil
Prefers, loose, well-drained, fertile soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.
Light
Requires full sun.
Care
Onions will benefit from 3 fertilizer applications in the growing season - one 40 to 60 days after planting, one mid-season, and one 4 weeks before harvest.
Harvest/Storage
Harvest when tops are wilted. Cure after harvest by laying out to dry in a shaded location for 2 to 4 weeks, until the outer skin is papery thin. Store in a cool (32 to 40 degrees), dry area in well-ventilated containers.
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details