Zantedeschia 'Snow Storm'

Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)                                                                                                      

Planting

Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.

                                                                                                                                                               

Light

Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.

Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems

 

Temperature

Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.

                                                                               

Watering

Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.           

               

Fertilization                                                                                                                                                           

Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17)  can result in better plant balance.       

                                                                                                            

Height Control                                                                                                                                                       

Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.                                                                                                                 

Disease Prevention & Control                                                                                                                                                               

Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:                                                                                                                                                          

Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”

   1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)  

   2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)

   3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)

   4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)

Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:                                                                    

   1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L              

   2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)

   3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.               

Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.

 

Insects

Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).

Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots                                                                                                                                                 

Storage After Arrival

Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.                                                                                                                               

Potting Medium    

Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).                                                                                                                                                                        

Watering                                

Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.       

                                                                     

Light                                                                       

Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.

                                     

Fertilizer                                                                

Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.                                                                                                                                                                

Marketing                              

Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.        

More Details

Zantedeschia 'Sumatra'

Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)                                                                                                      

Planting

Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.

                                                                                                                                                               

Light

Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.

Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems

 

Temperature

Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.

                                                                               

Watering

Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.           

               

Fertilization                                                                                                                                                           

Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17)  can result in better plant balance.       

                                                                                                            

Height Control                                                                                                                                                       

Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.                                                                                                                 

Disease Prevention & Control                                                                                                                                                               

Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:                                                                                                                                                          

Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”

   1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)  

   2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)

   3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)

   4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)

Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:                                                                    

   1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L              

   2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)

   3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.               

Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.

 

Insects

Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).

Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots                                                                                                                                                 

Storage After Arrival

Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.                                                                                                                               

Potting Medium    

Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).                                                                                                                                                                        

Watering                                

Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.       

                                                                     

Light                                                                       

Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.

                                     

Fertilizer                                                                

Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.                                                                                                                                                                

Marketing                              

Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.        

More Details

Zantedeschia 'Universe'

Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)                                                                                                      

Planting

Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.

                                                                                                                                                               

Light

Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.

Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems

 

Temperature

Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.

                                                                               

Watering

Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.           

               

Fertilization                                                                                                                                                           

Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17)  can result in better plant balance.       

                                                                                                            

Height Control                                                                                                                                                       

Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.                                                                                                                 

Disease Prevention & Control                                                                                                                                                               

Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:                                                                                                                                                          

Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”

   1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)  

   2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)

   3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)

   4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)

Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:                                                                    

   1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L              

   2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)

   3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.               

Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.

 

Insects

Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).

Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots                                                                                                                                                 

Storage After Arrival

Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.                                                                                                                               

Potting Medium    

Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).                                                                                                                                                                        

Watering                                

Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.       

                                                                     

Light                                                                       

Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.

                                     

Fertilizer                                                                

Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.                                                                                                                                                                

Marketing                              

Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.        

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Allium 'Millenium'

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Alocasia Odora 'Upright Elephant Ear'

Soil Preparation and Planting

Best grown in fertile, humusy, organically rich, medium to wet soils in part shade or filtered sun. In general, green types can take higher light levels; dark-leaved ones need shade. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently 50-60° F, plant each bulb 6-8" deep and 2-4 feet apart. Water generously.

 

Fertilization

Fertilize Colocasia every three weeks during fall and winter. Use a liquid plant food with a balanced N-P-K ratio such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. Water the fertilizer deeply into the soil immediately after application.

 

Water

Elephant ears are high water plants. Water as needed to keep the soil consistently moist, and don't allow the soil to become dry. Colocasia likes wet soil and is even appropriate for planting next to a pond, or in water up to 6 inches deep. Check the soil often if the bulbs are planted in sunlight.

 

Fall Care and Storage

Dig Colocasia bulbs after the first frost in autumn if you live in a climate with cold winters. Cut the foliage down to 2 to 4 inches before cutting. Allow the bulbs to dry for a day, and then place the bulbs in a box of wood shavings or peat moss. Store the box where the temperatures don't drop below 45°F.

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Anemone Coronaria 'De Caen'

single flower, mixed colors

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Canna 'Aprodite'

Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F.  In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix.  Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures:  Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.

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Canna 'City of Portland'

Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F.  In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix.  Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures:  Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.

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Canna 'Cleopatra'

Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F.  In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix.  Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures:  Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.

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Canna 'Durban'

Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F.  In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix.  Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures:  Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.

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Canna 'Stuttgart'

Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F.  In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix.  Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures:  Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.

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Canna 'Tropical Sunrise'

Canna can be planted anytime of the year in southern zones but the soil temperature should be 78-80° F.  In zones 3-8, plant in spring and summer when ground temperature is not below 65°F. They should be started indoors one month prior to moving outside. Canna prefer a sunny location in moist, fertile soil. When planting outside, prepare soil by spading and adding compost or rotted manure. Rhizomes should be planted 1 - 1/2" deep and spaced 18-24" apart. Soak well after planting. For container planting, pot one rhizome per gallon in well drained potting mix.  Containers will finish in 10-12 weeks when potted during the appropriate temperatures:  Daytime 70-75° F; Night 65-70° F. Fertilize established (2-3 weeks) plants monthly with 1:2:1 ratio (12:24:12 or 5:10:5), fertilizing at 1/2 the package recommendation. NPK at 200 ppm weekly in injector fed systems.

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Colocasia Esculenta 'Elephant Ear'

Soil Preparation and Planting

Best grown in fertile, humusy, organically rich, medium to wet soils in part shade or filtered sun. In general, green types can take higher light levels; dark-leaved ones need shade. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently 50-60° F, plant each bulb 6-8" deep and 2-4 feet apart. Water generously.

 

Fertilization

Fertilize Colocasia every three weeks during fall and winter. Use a liquid plant food with a balanced N-P-K ratio such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. Water the fertilizer deeply into the soil immediately after application.

 

Water

Elephant ears are high water plants. Water as needed to keep the soil consistently moist, and don't allow the soil to become dry. Colocasia likes wet soil and is even appropriate for planting next to a pond, or in water up to 6 inches deep. Check the soil often if the bulbs are planted in sunlight.

 

Fall Care and Storage

Dig Colocasia bulbs after the first frost in autumn if you live in a climate with cold winters. Cut the foliage down to 2 to 4 inches before cutting. Allow the bulbs to dry for a day, and then place the bulbs in a box of wood shavings or peat moss. Store the box where the temperatures don't drop below 45°F.

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Crocosmia 'Sharona'

coral red w/pink

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Dahlia Decorative 'Edinburgh'

Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.

Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.

Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.

Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.

Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.

Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.

Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.

Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.

For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.

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Dahlia Semi-cactus 'Purple Gem'

Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.

Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.

Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.

Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.

Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.

Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.

Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.

Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.

For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.

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Echinacea 'White Swan'

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Gladiolus 'Fairytale Pink'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

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Gladiolus 'Mon Amour'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

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Gladiolus 'Orange Sun'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

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Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Charm'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

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Gladiolus Tiny Tots 'Las Vegas'

Soil and Preparation:

Gladioli are one of the easiest flowers to grow. They do well in a wide range of soil types – provided drainage is good, but they grow best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Most garden soil that will produce a good crop of vegetables or weeds will also grow good glads with little or no added fertilizer. Glads prefer full sunlight, but will do reasonably well with a little high shade in early morning or late afternoon. Good circulation is desirable, so stay away from buildings or other obstructions, which might impede airflow. Plow, rototill, or spade your soil as you would for any other garden plants. It is best to move your glad plantings from one area to another each year to help prevent carryover of diseases in the soil. If soil tests or other reliable indicators point to a lack of nutrients, a balanced commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 may be incorporated into the soil immediately prior to planting, at a rate of 2- 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Avoid over-fertilizing. Composted animal manure or leaves should only be worked into the soil in the fall.

Planting:

Your first planting should be when you would normally plant sweet corn in your area. Corms (commonly called bulbs) planted in cold soils are apt to rot before they begin to grow. Subsequent plantings at two-week intervals will ensure bloom over a long period of time. We recommend planting corms three to five inches deep and from four to six inches apart, in rows spaced 12-36 inches apart. Insecticide spread in the trench before covering will discourage underground insects. Before glads bloom, hilling soil six inches up around the stalk helps prevent the glads from tipping over during storms. If drainage is a problem in your soil, rows should be raised to facilitate the process. Soggy, compacted soil will hamper root growth and contribute to root rot.

Watering:

Remember that glads need plenty of water, but will not tolerate wet feet. Lack of water inhibits spike growth, flower development and bulb growth. At least an inch of water per week is a good guideline.

Fertilization During Growing:

Before starting any fertilization program, always test the soil for nutrient content. The application of fertilizer should coincide with crop needs.  We recommend starting fertilization when the third or fourth leaf is visible. Amounts will vary according to the soil test, but for poor, light soil you may use a fertilizer of 5-10-10 again, or just nitrogen if the nutrient content of your soil is balanced. You would apply this as a side dressing.

Weed and Insect Control:

Weed by shallow cultivation and hand weeding. If available, a light mulch of straw, grass clippings, etc. between rows will discourage weeds and help conserve moisture. Insect control is important in growing glads. Pests include thrip, which is by far the most damaging. Thrip are tiny insects, tan to black in color and less than 1/8” in length. They can be controlled by several good combination sprays and dusts, including organic products, and are available at your local garden centers. If you chose organic products, more frequent applications will be needed.

Digging Corms (Bulbs):

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears. You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm.

Corm Storage:

After cleaning, corms should be lightly dusted with a combination fungicide/insecticide dust, placed in shallow trays, mesh bags or open paper bags to be stored for the winter. Do not use any covering material. A well-ventilated root cellar is ideal, but any room with good air circulation in the average home basement will suffice if temperatures can be kept between 35-50 degrees. The lower temperature is best, as long as they do not freeze.  

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Iris Ensata 'Crystal Halo'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Ensata 'Loyalty'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Ensata 'Royal Banner'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Ensata 'Variagata'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Ensata 'White Ladies'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Germanica 'Apricot and White'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Black'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Blue'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Orange'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Peach'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Pink'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Purple with White'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'Red'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'White'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Siberica 'Blue Moon'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'Caesars Brother'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'Claret Cup'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'Ruffled Velvet'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'Silver Edge'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'Snow Queen'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'White Swirl'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Versicolor 'Kermesina'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in medium to wet humusy soil. Also grows well along a moist shoreline, since it can tolerate shallow standing water. 

Light

Grow in full sun to part shade. 

Naturalizing

Will spread slowly in clumps to easily naturalize in an area with good conditions.

 

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Ixia Mixed Hybrids

Planting

Plant corms 5 inches deep, with spacing of 2-3 inches. Can also grow in containers with up to 6 corms in a 6 inch pot. Keep moist during growing season, but allow dry out after plants stop blooming in mid-summer. Corms can be dug up and overwintered in planting medium in a cool, dry area.

Soil

Best grown in well-draining soil with a high amount of organic matter.

Light

Grow in full sun to part shade. 

 

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Liatris 'Kobold'

Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States

Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved

 

Avg Time                 Avg Time                 Avg Plant Ht                              Climatic

of Planting              of Flower                 In.            Cm.                            Zone

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       3 and 4

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       5 and 6

Mar-April                 Jul-Aug                    20-30       50-70                       7 and 8

Sep-Feb                   Jan-Jun                    20-30       50-70                       9 and 10

 

Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or

size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.

 

Forcing Time

Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.

 

Storage After Arrival

Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE

 

Planting

Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.

 

Light

If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.

 

Watering

Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.

 

Fertilizer

After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.

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Liatris 'Spicata'

Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States

Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved

 

Avg Time                 Avg Time                 Avg Plant Ht                              Climatic

of Planting              of Flower                 In.            Cm.                            Zone

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       3 and 4

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       5 and 6

Mar-April                 Jul-Aug                    20-30       50-70                       7 and 8

Sep-Feb                   Jan-Jun                    20-30       50-70                       9 and 10

 

Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or

size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.

 

Forcing Time

Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.

 

Storage After Arrival

Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE

 

Planting

Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.

 

Light

If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.

 

Watering

Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.

 

Fertilizer

After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.

 

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Liatris 'Spicata Alba'

Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States

Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved

 

Avg Time                 Avg Time                 Avg Plant Ht                              Climatic

of Planting              of Flower                 In.            Cm.                            Zone

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       3 and 4

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       5 and 6

Mar-April                 Jul-Aug                    20-30       50-70                       7 and 8

Sep-Feb                   Jan-Jun                    20-30       50-70                       9 and 10

 

Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or

size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.

 

Forcing Time

Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.

 

Storage After Arrival

Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE

 

Planting

Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.

 

Light

If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.

 

Watering

Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.

 

Fertilizer

After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.

 

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