Zantedeschia Aethiopica 'Aethiopica'
Calla Aethiopica - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Zantedeschia Aethiopica 'Aethiopica'
Calla Aethiopica - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Crocus - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
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Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of
precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks.
Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches
Support System
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances, lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature,
because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower
after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur,
try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised.
ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations
suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the
medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm
to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not
to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!
Planting
In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:
For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot
12/14 cm. 3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
14/16 cm. 1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
16/18 cm. 1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Temperature
Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.
Ventilation
Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.
Plant Growth Retardants
Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.
Marketing and Storage
Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.
According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.
More Details
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!
Planting
In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:
For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot
12/14 cm. 3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
14/16 cm. 1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
16/18 cm. 1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Temperature
Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.
Ventilation
Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.
Plant Growth Retardants
Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.
Marketing and Storage
Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.
According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!
Planting
In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:
For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot
12/14 cm. 3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
14/16 cm. 1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
16/18 cm. 1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot
Light
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.
Watering
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.
Growing in the Summertime
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Temperature
Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.
Ventilation
Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.
Plant Growth Retardants
Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.
Marketing and Storage
Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.
According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.
More Details
Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.
On Arrival
After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.
Planting and Spacing
The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.
Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:
Asiatic Hybrids
12/14 cm 6-9 per sq ft
14/16 cm 5-8 per sq ft
Oriental Hybrids
16/18 cm 4-6 per sq ft
18/20 cm 4-5 per sq ft
Support System:
Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.
Watering:
Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.
Light:
Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.
Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.
The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.
Growing in the Summertime:
It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:
Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.
More Details
Planting
Dig hole 1/3 larger than root system or bulb and make the hole 2-3 " deep. Add a thin layer of base soil back in the bottom of the hole.
Root systems (rhizomes) like Trillium and Virginia Blue Bells should be placed on their side, but bulbs and corms should be placed
upright in the hole so that the pointed end is upwards. Fill with soil and water thoroughly.
Watering
Water every three to four days for the first week if it does not rain.
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.
Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.
Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.
More Details
Planting:
In the spring, after the last frost, plant bulbs twice as deep at their height, or around 2 inches, and spaced about 6 inches apart. Water well when finished planting.
Soil:
Prefers well-drained, organically rich soil with consistent moisture.
Sun:
Prefers full sun, especially hot afternoon sun.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
