Calla
Calla
Hippeastrum Southern Hemisphere 'Amadeus'
Christmas Forcing Amaryllis - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Hippeastrum Holland 'Picotee Petticoat'
Amaryllis - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
We carry 148 plants that match your search request. We've included all matches below. Click on any plant to learn additional details.
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Availability
Holland Amaryllis are available from October until April. Because of the large assortment that is presently on the market, it is difficult to give an exact forcing schedule. Generally the amaryllis flower more consistently after January 1. As a rule it takes 4 weeks to flower after shoot emerges.
For Christmas:
Plant November 10, recommended to use Southern Hemisphere bulbs
For Valentines:
Plant December 20, Use only size 30/32 of Ludwig Goliath, Fantastica, Dutch Belle, Apple Blossom, or Maria Goretti
For Easter:
All varieties and sizes are suitable, schedule ship date 6 weeks before Easter
Storage Upon Arrival
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting and Fertilization
Amaryllis must be planted in a well-drained, pH 6.0-6.5, sterilized planting medium. NEVER USE FRESH MANURE as part of the medium. Normally one bulb is planted per 5 1/2" or 6" (13-15 cm.) standard pot or 3 smaller bulbs in a 8" pot. Plant the bulb with the nose slightly above the rim of the pot - about 1/3 of the bulb will be out of the pot. The use of a plastic pot is preferred. Force bulbs pot to pot on the bench. After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. Do not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose. Initially, amaryllis do not need fertilization. After they are marketed consumers should be advised to fertilize the plants.
Light
Plants should be forced in a low to medium light (1000-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse. It is possible to start bulbs in a dark, temperature-controlled area before the bulbs are placed under lighted conditions.
Temperature
Amaryllis are tropical plants and they can be forced over a wide range of temperatures, but 75-80°F (24-27°C) is preferred. Bottom heat should be used. Average forcing time to market stage of development is 6-8 weeks. It will vary with each cultivar and forcing period. It is also important to note that amaryllis lots are somewhat variable and no guarantee as to flowering time can be given.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Amaryllis should be marketed when the floral stalk is 12" tall. It is desirable to have leaf growth of 6-12" and a second stalk beginning to grow. Do not cold store amaryllis plants or flowers. If they need to be held, place them at 50° F. Whenever possible, plants should be marketed with care tags. The consumer should be informed that amaryllis should be fertilized 1-2 times per month when it is growing. They can be placed outdoors in the pot when the danger of frost has passed. Amaryllis can also be used as cut flowers. They should be cut when the floral buds are colored, but not yet open. To prevent the splitting and outrolling of the cut stem, the flowers can be held in 0125 sucrose for 24 hours at 72°F before shipping.
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More DetailsStorage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Storage upon arrival:
Use a low humidity, well-ventilated area. Short-term storage temperature should be 55-60⁰F. Long-term storage or if the sprouts begin to show, lower the temperature to 41⁰ F
Planting:
Use sterilized, well-draining planting medium with a pH 6.00 to 6.80. Never use fresh manure or tree bark as part of the medium. Ideally the soil mix should consist of 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 compost or 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand or 60% coarse peat + 40% perlite. Branded potting soils such as Sunshine #4 may also be used. Use clean pots which will accommodate the bulb(s) comfortably without much room to spare. Pots must have drainage holes. Do not damage or remove existing roots. Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots. The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot, and the shoulders of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pots may be placed next to each other. Do not use saucers. Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity stay as low as possible.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly. Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate regrowth of the basal root system. USE TEPID WATER!! Do not water the bulb nose.
Temperature
Maintain a CONSTANT temperature day and night of 79° F to 82° F for optimal results - bottom heating is preferred. During the forcing period the temperature should never fall below 72° F or rise above 86° F. To delay the flowering, place pots at 48° F at stage 2 (before opening of the first bud). At this temperature growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area. No water should be administered while the plants are 9° C (48° F). To ACCELERATE growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 86° F.
Light
Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness (until stage 2) as long as the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until stage 2, the plants will need source is oblique from one side. Low light conditions and lower temperatures during forcing will result in taller stems at flowering. High light conditions and higher temperatures during forcing will promote shorter stems at flowering
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Forcing Hyacinths for Valentine's Day and Easter
For Valentine's Day - plant hyacinths in mid-October, cool at 48°F until January 10-15.
For Easter - after planting keep bulbs at 55°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the pot. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time depending on the sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F and held until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available the bulbs can be planted outside under a layer of 6" sand and straw cover.This method is only recommended in the Northern states.
Greenhouse Forcing:
For Christmas - use "Prepared Hyacinths", keep at 40°F, bring into the greenhouse December 1
For Valentine - 3-4 weeks at 65-70°F, bring into the greenhouse January 10-15
For Easter - 4 weeks at 65-70°F
Store after arrival:
Unpack bulbs and ventilate if not planted immediately. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Cooling:
Cooling is the most important step. The main rule for hyacinths is 12-14 weeks of temperature at or below 48°F.
Planting:
Use well drained, outdoor composted site. Plant bulbs so that soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 6" apart. For indoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level. Hyacinths flower in April with a height of 10". Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil should have a pH level of 6-7 and have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard#3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4.
Watering:
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Any good well-draining garden soil. Water just enough to be sure the plant's root system can establish. Good ventilation helps prevent fungal disease.
Fertilization
A low-nitrogen fertilizer; 6-10-10 or 5-10-10 is best. Lightly sprinkle small amount of fertilizer around outside of plant. Fertilize twice a year, in spring about a month before bloom and then again one month after bloom. Be careful fertilizer does not come into contact directly with rhizome.
Light and Temperature Requirements
Full sun is best. At least 5 hours of sun per day. If not planted or in pots, they should not be allowed to freeze.
|
*Approximate |
**Approximate |
||
|
Shipdate |
Variety |
Flower Date/Holiday |
Flower Date/Holiday |
|
Oct 17 |
White, Blue |
Jan 6 |
|
|
Nov 17 |
All Varieties |
Jan 24 |
|
|
Nov 14 |
All Varieties |
Feb 7 |
Feb 21 |
|
Nov 28 |
All Varieties |
Feb 23 |
Mar 7 |
|
Dec 12 |
All Varieties |
Mar 7 |
Mar 21 |
|
Dec 26 |
All Varieties |
Apr 12 |
Apr 18 |
|
Jan 9, 2023 |
All Varieties |
Apr 26 |
Apr 25 |
|
Jan 23 |
All Varieties |
May 9 |
May 9 |
|
Feb 6 |
All Varieties |
May 16 |
May 17 |
|
Feb 20 |
All Varieties |
May 23 |
May 23 |
|
Mar 6 |
All Varieties |
May 31 |
May 30 |
*Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F - White, Blue
**Approximate Flower Date @ 52-55°F Yellow
Please note: Iris will ship a week earlier if needed around the holidays.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms.
When to Plant
For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.
Planting
Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level. Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.
Watering
Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.
Fertilizer
Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.
Growing Iris in Containers
Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot. Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.
More Details
Planting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More Details
Planting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More Details
Planting
Plant in fall, 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart. Plants will naturalize over time.
Forcing
Can also be forced in pots for indoor enjoyment. Place in pot filled loosely with potting mix, setting bulbs side by side but not touching. Leaving the top 1/3 of the bulbs exposed, cover loosely wtih soil. Water and store in a cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Keep soil most but not wet. When shoots emerge, gradually move toward an indoor, sunny location, turning every couple days for even growth.
Soil
Prefers well-drained medium moisture soil. Keep moist in spring, but reduce water when foliage begins to die back.
Sun
Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant is more vigorous in full sun, but blooms last longer in part shade.
More Details
FOR POT OR CUT FORCING
Storage after arrival
Since the bulbs are treated they can only be stored for a few days at 63°F under well ventilated conditions.
Planting/Forcing
Grow plants pot to pot on the bench. Use a well drained, pH 6-7 sterilized soil. Plant: 3 bulbs in a 5" pot; 4-5 bulbs in a 6" pot; 7-9 bulbs in an 8" pot. Forcing time is generally 3-6 weeks depending on time of planting.
Watering, Fertilizer, Light Requirements
Keep planting medium moist but do not over water. Fertilization is neither harmful nor is it required for paperwhites in a greenhouse. Use a medium light (5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
Use 60-63°F night temperatures. Lower temperatures can be used but the plant will take longer to reach market stage.
Height Control for Pots
In order to reduce excessive elongation of the flower stalk and leaves of "Ziva" the plants can be sprayed to run off with 2000 ethephon (Florel) when the shoots are 4-5" long. A 2000 ppm Florel solution is one pint in 2.5 gallons and this treats about 500 6" pots. It is important that the foliage be dry at the time of treatment. Also, do not wet the foliage for 12 hours after treatment - late afternoon is the best time to spray. Treatment can delay flowering by 2-4 days.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - the plants should be marketed with the shoots 8-10" tall and the flowers are visible. Do not wait until they begin to show color.
More Details
FOR POT OR CUT FORCING
Storage after arrival
Since the bulbs are treated they can only be stored for a few days at 63°F under well ventilated conditions.
Planting/Forcing
Grow plants pot to pot on the bench. Use a well drained, pH 6-7 sterilized soil. Plant: 3 bulbs in a 5" pot; 4-5 bulbs in a 6" pot; 7-9 bulbs in an 8" pot. Forcing time is generally 3-6 weeks depending on time of planting.
Watering, Fertilizer, Light Requirements
Keep planting medium moist but do not over water. Fertilization is neither harmful nor is it required for paperwhites in a greenhouse. Use a medium light (5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
Use 60-63°F night temperatures. Lower temperatures can be used but the plant will take longer to reach market stage.
Height Control for Pots
In order to reduce excessive elongation of the flower stalk and leaves of "Ziva" the plants can be sprayed to run off with 2000 ethephon (Florel) when the shoots are 4-5" long. A 2000 ppm Florel solution is one pint in 2.5 gallons and this treats about 500 6" pots. It is important that the foliage be dry at the time of treatment. Also, do not wet the foliage for 12 hours after treatment - late afternoon is the best time to spray. Treatment can delay flowering by 2-4 days.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - the plants should be marketed with the shoots 8-10" tall and the flowers are visible. Do not wait until they begin to show color.
More Details
FOR POT OR CUT FORCING
Storage after arrival
Since the bulbs are treated they can only be stored for a few days at 63°F under well ventilated conditions.
Planting/Forcing
Grow plants pot to pot on the bench. Use a well drained, pH 6-7 sterilized soil. Plant: 3 bulbs in a 5" pot; 4-5 bulbs in a 6" pot; 7-9 bulbs in an 8" pot. Forcing time is generally 3-6 weeks depending on time of planting.
Watering, Fertilizer, Light Requirements
Keep planting medium moist but do not over water. Fertilization is neither harmful nor is it required for paperwhites in a greenhouse. Use a medium light (5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
Use 60-63°F night temperatures. Lower temperatures can be used but the plant will take longer to reach market stage.
Height Control for Pots
In order to reduce excessive elongation of the flower stalk and leaves of "Ziva" the plants can be sprayed to run off with 2000 ethephon (Florel) when the shoots are 4-5" long. A 2000 ppm Florel solution is one pint in 2.5 gallons and this treats about 500 6" pots. It is important that the foliage be dry at the time of treatment. Also, do not wet the foliage for 12 hours after treatment - late afternoon is the best time to spray. Treatment can delay flowering by 2-4 days.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - the plants should be marketed with the shoots 8-10" tall and the flowers are visible. Do not wait until they begin to show color.
More Details
FOR POT OR CUT FORCING
Storage after arrival
Since the bulbs are treated they can only be stored for a few days at 63°F under well ventilated conditions.
Planting/Forcing
Grow plants pot to pot on the bench. Use a well drained, pH 6-7 sterilized soil. Plant: 3 bulbs in a 5" pot; 4-5 bulbs in a 6" pot; 7-9 bulbs in an 8" pot. Forcing time is generally 3-6 weeks depending on time of planting.
Watering, Fertilizer, Light Requirements
Keep planting medium moist but do not over water. Fertilization is neither harmful nor is it required for paperwhites in a greenhouse. Use a medium light (5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
Use 60-63°F night temperatures. Lower temperatures can be used but the plant will take longer to reach market stage.
Height Control for Pots
In order to reduce excessive elongation of the flower stalk and leaves of "Ziva" the plants can be sprayed to run off with 2000 ethephon (Florel) when the shoots are 4-5" long. A 2000 ppm Florel solution is one pint in 2.5 gallons and this treats about 500 6" pots. It is important that the foliage be dry at the time of treatment. Also, do not wet the foliage for 12 hours after treatment - late afternoon is the best time to spray. Treatment can delay flowering by 2-4 days.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - the plants should be marketed with the shoots 8-10" tall and the flowers are visible. Do not wait until they begin to show color.
More Details
FOR POT OR CUT FORCING
Storage after arrival
Since the bulbs are treated they can only be stored for a few days at 63°F under well ventilated conditions.
Planting/Forcing
Grow plants pot to pot on the bench. Use a well drained, pH 6-7 sterilized soil. Plant: 3 bulbs in a 5" pot; 4-5 bulbs in a 6" pot; 7-9 bulbs in an 8" pot. Forcing time is generally 3-6 weeks depending on time of planting.
Watering, Fertilizer, Light Requirements
Keep planting medium moist but do not over water. Fertilization is neither harmful nor is it required for paperwhites in a greenhouse. Use a medium light (5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
Use 60-63°F night temperatures. Lower temperatures can be used but the plant will take longer to reach market stage.
Height Control for Pots
In order to reduce excessive elongation of the flower stalk and leaves of "Ziva" the plants can be sprayed to run off with 2000 ethephon (Florel) when the shoots are 4-5" long. A 2000 ppm Florel solution is one pint in 2.5 gallons and this treats about 500 6" pots. It is important that the foliage be dry at the time of treatment. Also, do not wet the foliage for 12 hours after treatment - late afternoon is the best time to spray. Treatment can delay flowering by 2-4 days.
Marketing, Harvesting and Storage
Forcers - the plants should be marketed with the shoots 8-10" tall and the flowers are visible. Do not wait until they begin to show color.
More Details
Planting
Plant onion sets directly into the ground, 1 to 2 inches deep, 2 to 3 inches apart. Once growing starts, thin to a 3 to 4 inch spacing. Thinned onions are tender and green - great to use as green onions.
Soil
Prefers, loose, well-drained, fertile soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.
Light
Requires full sun.
Care
Onions will benefit from 3 fertilizer applications in the growing season - one 40 to 60 days after planting, one mid-season, and one 4 weeks before harvest.
Harvest/Storage
Harvest when tops are wilted. Cure after harvest by laying out to dry in a shaded location for 2 to 4 weeks, until the outer skin is papery thin. Store in a cool (32 to 40 degrees), dry area in well-ventilated containers.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.
Planting
Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.
Watering
Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.
Fertilizer
Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.
Light Requirements
Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.
Temperature
In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.
Height Control for Pots
Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.
Insects
Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.
Marketing
Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Soil and Preparation
Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.
Planting
Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Fertilization During Growing
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.
Cutting Guidelines
Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms. Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.
Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms
Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F.
Pre-sprouting (preparation)
Pre-sprounting gives the bulbs a better and more even start for optimal rooting and flower development.
Soak the bags for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 70-80 degree F with 5 gr GA3 (Gibberellic Acid) per 100 liter maintain temp. of 70-80 degree F during this 12 hour period. Make sure that the whole bag is submerged in water for the whole period!
Dip the bulbs in a fungicide for about 15 minutes: 1% of Topsin (active ingredients: thiofanaat-methyand 500 g/l) + ½% Securo (active ingredients: pyraclostrobin 100 g/l + folpet 300 g/l).
Directly after soaking the bulbs for 12 hours and fungicide dip you need to plant bulbs directly in the ground, keep the soil moist. When direct planting is not possible, store the Ranunculus in a coldstore at 41 degrees F.
It is very important to make sure that bulbs do not dry out after planting. (When bulbs dry out you will have loss of germination of the bulbs).
Prior to planting:
Take a soil sample (before you start preparing the soil and bulbs).
Fertilizing depends on a soil and water sample / analysis.
PH: 5.8 – 6.3;
EC: 1.3 to 1.5.
Planting/Spacing
Plant in a moist and well-drained soil free from weeds, with a soil temperature below the 50 degrees F.
Plant approximately ½ to ¾ inch deep, spacing bulbs 6-8 inches apart within the rows and space each row 6-8 inches apart, max of 4 rows per bed.
Recommended to use 1 layer of nets for support.
Plant the bulbs with the center of the bulb facing up and the end of the roots down. Be careful of not damaging the bulbs when planting. Water bulbs after planting so the soil is moist and encloses around the bulbs.
Watering
In the beginning, utilize overhead watering. Later, water only by drip hoses.
Very important especially in the beginning of the crop to keep the soil moist at all times!
Fertilization
Until some years ago, only phosphate was known for a better root development. Now we know that the plants have a preferred order as it comes to the absorption of elements. In the first stage of growth they need sulfur, followed in order by boron, silicon, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium and last but not least phosphorus.
The availability of these elements – especially boron, silicon and calcium – are essential for a good start of the plants. If one of these elements is not (enough) available, the chain will be broken and the growing process might start slower or with more problems.
Apply your fertilizer according to your soil sample.
Approximately 1 week after planting, drench the soil with a ‘cocktail’ so the rooting is easier:
• Risolex;
• Topsin;
• Proplant/previcure.
Growing
First 2-4 weeks you will see your Ranunculus sprouting in the ground, try to keep night temperatures around 15 degrees C at night and during day as cool as possible.
When plants have sprouted and are growing for about 4-5 weeks and you have sufficient foliage on the bulbs growing lower the night temperature to as cool as possible. (no frost) You get best quality Ranunculus when growing is as cool as possible, you can grow as cool as 2-4 degrees C. if possible keep sides open of greenhouse.
During night keep well enough ventilated to prevent mildew.
Grow Ranunculus as cool as possible.
Diseases and insects:
- Botrytis and Mildew: spray with Flint, Ortiva or Switch (the only remedy that works curatively at low temperatures) and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Leaf spot: spray preventive with Luna Privilege and use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder. Because this disease is very contagious, it is important to spray preventive
- Xanthomonas: gives round, purple-red spots, often with a yellow circle. Spray preventively with, for example, Serenade or Ranman Top. And use leaf fertilizers + trace elements to make the leaves harder.
- Erwina: spray preventive with copper oxychloride.
- Do regular spotting in the greenhouse to check for: Caterpillars, Aphids (Tepeki), Leaf Miners (Vertimec), Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies. And spray when needed.
Flower harvest and treatment during harvest:
Do not pull the stems from the bulb always cut with knife!
Cool water buckets night before in cooler to have cold water in harvesting buckets.
When flowers are cut early in the morning, as soon as possible place them in water at a temperature of 40 degrees F (even before bunching) and store them in a cooler. If the crop is harvested later during the day and the stem dries in and will absorb less water, which is why it is important to place directly in water after cutting.
Cutting stage Ranunculus Romance:
Llet the flowers open and close for 3 days and then cut the flowers for maximum size. (this gives you larger flowers and longer vase life) .Harvest Ranunculus Romance flowers only early in the morning, cutting stem at ground level.
Add a Chlorine tablet of Florissant 520 into a bucket with water to be placed in the cooler.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit
Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).
Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.
More Details
Storage after arrival:
Bulbs should be unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F - do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Planting medium can be any commercial soil or soil mix as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. pH level should be 6-7 and soil should have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4. Plant bulbs with the flat side outside of the container and the top of the bulb should be level with the container rim. Use either clay or plastic pot but make sure good drainage is available. There should be at least 2" of growing medium under the base of the bulb to allow for a good root structure. They also prefer a rather deep, loamy soil with good drainage. The leaves are broad or linear. Tulips can be used in pots, borders, perennial gardens or beds. Use a well-drained, composted site. Plant bulbs outdoors to that the soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40-60 bulbs per square yard, space bulbs 5" apart (approx 4-7 per sq. ft.) Bulb size determines exact spacing and planting depth. Plant forcing bulbs at soil level.
Cooling
Cooling is the most important step in successfully growing flower bulbs. The main rule for almost all tulips is 14-16 weeks of cool temperature at or below 48°F.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs. per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control for Pots
The product A'Rest (ancymidol) has worked very effectively in controlling the length of the tulips in pots. However, varieties react differently at different times of the year to the same application. It is important that the forcers guide is consulted before using this product.
More Details
Storage after arrival:
Bulbs should be unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F - do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Planting medium can be any commercial soil or soil mix as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. pH level should be 6-7 and soil should have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4. Plant bulbs with the flat side outside of the container and the top of the bulb should be level with the container rim. Use either clay or plastic pot but make sure good drainage is available. There should be at least 2" of growing medium under the base of the bulb to allow for a good root structure. They also prefer a rather deep, loamy soil with good drainage. The leaves are broad or linear. Tulips can be used in pots, borders, perennial gardens or beds. Use a well-drained, composted site. Plant bulbs outdoors to that the soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40-60 bulbs per square yard, space bulbs 5" apart (approx 4-7 per sq. ft.) Bulb size determines exact spacing and planting depth. Plant forcing bulbs at soil level.
Cooling
Cooling is the most important step in successfully growing flower bulbs. The main rule for almost all tulips is 14-16 weeks of cool temperature at or below 48°F.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs. per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control for Pots
The product A'Rest (ancymidol) has worked very effectively in controlling the length of the tulips in pots. However, varieties react differently at different times of the year to the same application. It is important that the forcers guide is consulted before using this product.
More Details
Storage after arrival:
Bulbs should be unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F - do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Planting medium can be any commercial soil or soil mix as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. pH level should be 6-7 and soil should have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4. Plant bulbs with the flat side outside of the container and the top of the bulb should be level with the container rim. Use either clay or plastic pot but make sure good drainage is available. There should be at least 2" of growing medium under the base of the bulb to allow for a good root structure. They also prefer a rather deep, loamy soil with good drainage. The leaves are broad or linear. Tulips can be used in pots, borders, perennial gardens or beds. Use a well-drained, composted site. Plant bulbs outdoors to that the soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40-60 bulbs per square yard, space bulbs 5" apart (approx 4-7 per sq. ft.) Bulb size determines exact spacing and planting depth. Plant forcing bulbs at soil level.
Cooling
Cooling is the most important step in successfully growing flower bulbs. The main rule for almost all tulips is 14-16 weeks of cool temperature at or below 48°F.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs. per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control for Pots
The product A'Rest (ancymidol) has worked very effectively in controlling the length of the tulips in pots. However, varieties react differently at different times of the year to the same application. It is important that the forcers guide is consulted before using this product.
More Details
Storage after arrival:
Bulbs should be unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F - do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Planting Medium/Planting Procedure
Planting medium can be any commercial soil or soil mix as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. pH level should be 6-7 and soil should have a low soluble salt level. The following soil mixes have shown the best results: Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, Fison Sunshine #4. Plant bulbs with the flat side outside of the container and the top of the bulb should be level with the container rim. Use either clay or plastic pot but make sure good drainage is available. There should be at least 2" of growing medium under the base of the bulb to allow for a good root structure. They also prefer a rather deep, loamy soil with good drainage. The leaves are broad or linear. Tulips can be used in pots, borders, perennial gardens or beds. Use a well-drained, composted site. Plant bulbs outdoors to that the soil is 6" above the bulb nose. Use 40-60 bulbs per square yard, space bulbs 5" apart (approx 4-7 per sq. ft.) Bulb size determines exact spacing and planting depth. Plant forcing bulbs at soil level.
Cooling
Cooling is the most important step in successfully growing flower bulbs. The main rule for almost all tulips is 14-16 weeks of cool temperature at or below 48°F.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the pot and not over the crop.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in the greenhouse only, not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs. per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control for Pots
The product A'Rest (ancymidol) has worked very effectively in controlling the length of the tulips in pots. However, varieties react differently at different times of the year to the same application. It is important that the forcers guide is consulted before using this product.
More Details