Lilies Double Oriental 'Roselily Samantha'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

More Details

Lilies Longiflorum Asiatic 'Courier'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

More Details

Lilies Longiflorum Asiatic 'Eyeliner'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

More Details

Lilies Oriental 'Garden Party'

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!

Planting

In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:

1. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 50% (rate of 3/4 - 1 lb. per 100 gallons).
2. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 46.2% Flowable (rate of 20 ounces per 100 gallons).
3. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Domain Flowable 46.2% (rate of up to 30 ounces per 100 gallons).

For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

 

                Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot

    12/14 cm.               3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    14/16 cm.               1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    16/18 cm.               1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

Light

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.

Watering

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.

Growing in the Summertime

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Temperature

Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.

Ventilation

Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.

Plant Growth Retardants

Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.

Marketing and Storage

Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.

According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.

More Details

Lilies Oriental 'Golden Romance'

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!

Planting

In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:

1. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 50% (rate of 3/4 - 1 lb. per 100 gallons).
2. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 46.2% Flowable (rate of 20 ounces per 100 gallons).
3. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Domain Flowable 46.2% (rate of up to 30 ounces per 100 gallons).

For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

 

                Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot

    12/14 cm.               3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    14/16 cm.               1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    16/18 cm.               1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

Light

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.

Watering

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.

Growing in the Summertime

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Temperature

Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.

Ventilation

Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.

Plant Growth Retardants

Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.

Marketing and Storage

Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.

According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.

More Details

Lilies Oriental 'Hachi'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

More Details

Lilies Oriental 'Mount Aspiring'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

More Details

Lilies Oriental 'White Romance'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

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Lilies Oriental Trumpet 'Frisco'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

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Onions 'Snowball White'



Planting

Plant onion sets directly into the ground, 1 to 2 inches deep, 2 to 3 inches apart. Once growing starts, thin to a 3 to 4 inch spacing. Thinned onions are tender and green - great to use as green onions.

Soil

Prefers, loose, well-drained, fertile soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.

Light

Requires full sun.

Care

Onions will benefit from 3 fertilizer applications in the growing season - one 40 to 60 days after planting, one mid-season, and one 4 weeks before harvest.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest when tops are wilted. Cure after harvest by laying out to dry in a shaded location for 2 to 4 weeks, until the outer skin is papery thin. Store in a cool (32 to 40 degrees), dry area in well-ventilated containers. 

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Oxalis Regnelli 'Regnelli White'

Storage After Arrival

Before planting, rhizomes can be stored up to 4 weeks at 40-50⁰F. Be sure to keep them covered so they do not dry out.

Planting

Use a well drained, sterilized planting medium. Ideal pH should be 6.5 and no lower. Plant 3 rhizomes per 4" pot; 4 rhizomes per 5" pot.
Lay the corms (roots) flat and cover with 1/2" of soil medium. Fafard #2 and Metro Mix 350 are the best suited soils.
Avoid any soil which contains bark. Can be placed pot to pot when grown on benches until leaves start, then space 8" on center.

Watering

Water the medium thoroughly, then only water the medium when it becomes dry and/or the plants begin to grow vigorously. DO NOT OVERWATER.

Fertilizer

Because oxalis grow fast, they need to have sufficient fertilizer. Use a complete NPK fertilizer on a weekly basis once the plants begin to
grow vigorously. Either 200 ppm of 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 Osmocote can be used. If any chlorosis begins to appear in the oldest leaves,
use a micronutrient foliage spray. If the foliage is yellowing this could be a nitrogen deficiency problem.

Light Requirements

Use a medium light (2500-5000 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse that is well ventilated.

Temperature

In order to assure proper germination, start Regnelli White at 68-75⁰F - Triangularis & Fanny at 72-78⁰F. The plants grow well in full sun or light shade at temperatures between 70-75⁰F. If grown at lower than 65⁰F or higher than 85⁰F the plants may suffer. If flowers bloom down in the foliage, the plant has probably been grown with too much shade. Once the plants show vigorous growth the temperature may be lowered to 65⁰F.

Height Control for Pots

Height control - Bonzi drenches proved to be the most effective of all treatments for suppressing plant height in regnelli and triangularis. Sumagic drenches of 0.10 mg/pot were as effective as the Bonzi treatments in reducing the height of regnelli pink. The other concentrations of Sumagic did reduce the height in both varieties, but their effects were not as noticeable as were the Bonzi treatments. It was also determined that A'Rest should not be used on these species due to its cost and inactivity. Oxalis growers can use Bonzi drenches in the range of 0.05 to 0.1 mg/4 1/2" pot to "stop" further growth once a desired height is reached. Early drenching of Bonzi is to be avoided since this would probably cause severe stunting.

Insects

Oxalis are almost disease free, but will attract insects in warmer temperatures. The following product is advised for spiders - Pentac 50
wettable powder - 8 ounces per 100 gallons of water, 2 applications per week for two weeks.

Marketing

Plants are ready to market when foliage is fully expanded. It is not necessary to have flowers present.

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Peony lactiflora 'Duchess de Nemours'

Soil and Preparation

Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.

Planting

Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Fertilization During Growing

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Cutting Guidelines

Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms.  Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.

Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms

Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms

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Peony lactiflora 'Festiva Maxima'

Soil and Preparation

Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.

Planting

Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Fertilization During Growing

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Cutting Guidelines

Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms.  Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.

Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms

Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms

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Peony lactiflora 'Mother's Choice'

Soil and Preparation

Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.

Planting

Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Fertilization During Growing

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Cutting Guidelines

Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms.  Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.

Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms

Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms

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Peony lactiflora 'Primavere'

Soil and Preparation

Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.

Planting

Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Fertilization During Growing

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Cutting Guidelines

Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms.  Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.

Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms

Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms

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Peony lactiflora 'Shirley Temple'

Soil and Preparation

Peonies prefer well-draining, humus-rich moist soil. Amend heavy or very sandy soil with compost. Additionally, 1 cup of bonemeal can be used to amend the soil prior to planting. Choose a location in full sun, but one that provides ample growing room along with protection from strong winds.

Planting

Dig a a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and set the root so the eyes face upward. Fill in the hole, making sure to keep the peony's eyes/buds not deeper than 2" below the soil line. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Fertilization During Growing

They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

Cutting Guidelines

Years 1 & 2: Do not cut any blooms.  Dis-budding is recommended to encourage root growth and overall plant development.

Year 3: For 2/3 eye roots - Cut 1/3 of the total blooms; For 3/5 eye roots - Cut 50% of the blooms

Year 4: Cut 70% of the total blooms

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Phlox Paniculata 'White Flame'

Planting:
Plant bareroot phlox in the spring in loose soil deep enough that the crown is at the soil line. Adding compost and/or a granular fertilizer at this time is also beneficial. Once roots are covered in soil, water well.

 

Soil:
Prefers average to moist but well-drained soil (to prevent root rot). Also needs plenty of air circulation to prevent powdery mildew. Benefits from being cut to the ground before winter to prevent any powdery mildew infection carrying over to the next year.

 

Sun:
Prefers full sun to part shade.

 

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Polianthes Tuberosa 'Single'

Planting:
In the spring, after the last frost, plant bulbs twice as deep at their height, or around 2 inches, and spaced about 6 inches apart. Water well when finished planting.

 

Soil:
Prefers well-drained, organically rich soil with consistent moisture.

 

Sun:
Prefers full sun, especially hot afternoon sun.

 

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Polianthes Tuberosa 'The Pearl'

Planting:
In the spring, after the last frost, plant bulbs twice as deep at their height, or around 2 inches, and spaced about 6 inches apart. Water well when finished planting.

 

Soil:
Prefers well-drained, organically rich soil with consistent moisture.

 

Sun:
Prefers full sun, especially hot afternoon sun.

 

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Ranunculus Tecolote 'Merlot'

Storage After Arrival

Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit

Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)

Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).

Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)

Growing in Containers:

Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.

Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:

About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.

Growing in Greenhouses:

Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.

Watering/Fertilizer/Growing

Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.

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Ranunculus Tecolote 'White'

Storage After Arrival

Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit

Planting in Zones 8 and warmer (Fall Planting)

Choose a location with well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. Plant bulbs 4-6in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Refrain from watering until leaves sprout (most likely will occur in spring).

Planting in Zones 7 and colder (Spring Planting)

Growing in Containers:

Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full sun all day.

Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:

About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun.

Growing in Greenhouses:

Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided. Following soaking instructions for outdoor landscape beds will give ranunculus a head start on growth.

Watering/Fertilizer/Growing

Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizing is not necessary. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it. In colder climates, ranunculus are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year. On average, ranunculus begin to bloom 90 days after planting. Flowering typically lasts approximately 6 to 7 weeks for fall planted bulbs and 4 to 6 weeks for spring planted bulbs.

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Strawberries Specialty 'White Carolina'

Planting Strawberries Outdoors

Strawberries are best planted in a sunny location with fertile, well-drained soil. Strawberries will tolerate semi-shade, however, yield will be less than those grown in full sun. Be careful about where you plant. If standing water remains on the site after a light rain, you may encounter root-rot problems. The site you select must be well drained. Improve your soil with lots of organic matter prior to planting and growing.

               

For growing in the ground, plant strawberries 18" apart and in rows 30" apart. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of the plant.                

If planting strawberry runners, spread the roots out in the hole and make sure the crown of the plant is resting at soil level. Pot grown plants should be planted so the top of the compost is level with the soil surface. Planting too deeply can cause the plants to rot, and planting with the crown too high above the soil surface can cause the plants to dry out and die. Firm in well and water thoroughly. To avoid flowering and fruiting stress on young plants, flower buds should be removed in the first year. Removal of flowers will allow the plants to direct their energy toward establishing a root system and developing a healthy, large leaf canopy to fuel next year’s crop.     

               

Watering

Irrigate overhead daily for first two weeks; thereafter, keep tops dry, irrigating by drip or sub-irrigation.       

               

Growing in Hanging Baskets and Containers       

Strawberry plants grow very well in pots, jars, and baskets. It's best to use a well-aerated organic plant mix. Incorporating water-retaining granules and appropriate slow release fertilizer is recommended prior to planting. Check daily and water if the top half-inch of soil/compost medium feels dry. 

               

Recommended planting:       

                5 plants in a 10" basket

                3 plants in a 6" basket

                Top dress with slow release fertilizer upon sale

               

                4 INCH POTS:

                2 plants per pot for faster finish time and best presentation

               

                GALLON CONTAINERS:

                3 plants per container

               

                CELL PAKS:

                806’s, 606’s, 4-paks or pony-paks

 

Fertlization:           

Any balanced mix high in nitrogen or through water (but not both). A 10-10-10 or 15-15-15 fertilizer is recommended.               

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Trillium Grandiflorum

How To Plant
Dig hole 1/3 larger than root system or bulb and make the hole 2-3 " deep. Add a thin layer of base soil back in the bottom of the hole.
Root systems (rhizomes) like Trillium and Virginia Blue Bells should be placed on their side, but bulbs and corms should be placed
upright in the hole so that the pointed end is upwards. Fill with soil and water thoroughly.

Watering
Water every three to four days for the first week if it does not rain.

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Zantedeschia 'Picasso'

Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)                                                                                                      

Planting

Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.

                                                                                                                                                               

Light

Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.

Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems

 

Temperature

Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.

                                                                               

Watering

Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.           

               

Fertilization                                                                                                                                                           

Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17)  can result in better plant balance.       

                                                                                                            

Height Control                                                                                                                                                       

Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.                                                                                                                 

Disease Prevention & Control                                                                                                                                                               

Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:                                                                                                                                                          

Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”

   1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)  

   2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)

   3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)

   4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)

Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:                                                                    

   1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L              

   2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)

   3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.               

Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.

 

Insects

Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).

Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots                                                                                                                                                 

Storage After Arrival

Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.                                                                                                                               

Potting Medium    

Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).                                                                                                                                                                        

Watering                                

Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.       

                                                                     

Light                                                                       

Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.

                                     

Fertilizer                                                                

Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.                                                                                                                                                                

Marketing                              

Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.        

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Zantedeschia 'Snow Storm'

Calla For 3 Gallon Pot (6" or 1 gallon pot instructions below)                                                                                                      

Planting

Aethiopica are moisture loving. Use a well draining media with a pH of 5.5-6.5 that is high in organic matter. Plant 2" deep in containers or 3-4" deep in beds.

                                                                                                                                                               

Light

Aethiopica will withstand a wide range of light conditions (500 to 5,000 candles). Higher light can be tolerated in cool and humid periods.

Plants can handle full sun to 70% shade without becoming too badly stressed, but 50% shade is ideal. Deeply shaded conditions will cause lengthened, but weakened stems

 

Temperature

Aethiopica tolerate a range of temperatures but prefers relatively cool temperatures. Optimum daytime temperatures are 55-65⁰F; nighttime 45-55⁰F; germination at 65-70⁰F until sprouting helps hasten rooting and establishment. Cool nights with clear days will promote shorter, stronger stems. Aethiopica are somewhat frost sensitive. Foliage will not withstand prolonged freezing temperatures. Bulbs can take some frost but not soil freeze to bulb depth.

                                                                               

Watering

Keep soil slightly moist until substantial sprouts emerge. Then keep soil slightly moist (but not soggy) until peak bloom then decrease moderately.           

               

Fertilization                                                                                                                                                           

Proper fertility is critical for full plant growth with well-colored leaves and continued flower production in Aethiopica. Use a soil incorporated 30-day release preplant charge of nitrogen and potassium (containing little or no phosphorous). This will produce good early establishment of roots and improved early vigor. At approximately 3-4 weeks, begin a semi-balanced liquid feed @ 200 ppm weekly or 100 ppm constant using 20-10-20 or initially as needed. Modifications can then be made based on individual growth objectives and conditions. At leaf unfurling, reducing to 50 ppm alternated 1:1 with clear water will keep plants from getting too leafy. Alternately, consider the use of a low phosphorous fertilizer (i.e. 17-5-17)  can result in better plant balance.       

                                                                                                            

Height Control                                                                                                                                                       

Generally it is best to make a single PGR drench application when plants are at 1/2 to 3/4 desired plant height. Note that the require rate will depend primarily on the light, temperature, fertility and your bulb size & form. It’s often best to use apply Bonzi at 7.5-10 ppm @ 0.25-0.33oz/gal (2-2.6ml/L). 3.75-7.5 ppm @ 0.125-0.25oz/gal (1-2ml/L) should be used if: 1) lighter desired effects are desired; 2) earlier or multiple applications will be use; 3) smaller and/or clustered bulbs are being used. TOO HIGH A RATE OR TOO EARLY AN APPLICATION CAN CAUSE LEAF CRINKLING, PLANT ROSETTING, LACK OF BLOOM OR GENERAL STUNTING. If plants become over growth regulated, a GA rescue spray can be effective @100-200ppm GA3 or GA4+7 [and coupled with a mild surfactant]. *Bonzi rates higher than 10 ppm may arrest plant height completely.                                                                                                                 

Disease Prevention & Control                                                                                                                                                               

Aethiopica is generally susceptible to three (3) primary soil borne pathogens: Pythium & Phytophthora (“water molds”) plus Rhizoctonia and bacteria: Erwinia (Pectobacteria spp.). “Water molds” are often the first & most critical component in the disease complex, followed by Rhizoctonia. with the following preferred materials:                                                                                                                                                          

Once root injury occurs, Erwinia will often enter as a seconday infection. Our best tank mixed, four-part chemical drench targets the “3-pathogen complex”

   1) WATER MOLD part 1- Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam 25.1% ai) @ 0.5-1oz/100 gal (4-8ml/100 L)  

   2) WATER MOLD part 2- Aliette (fosetyl-aluminum 80% ai) @ 13oz/100 gal (98gm/100 L)

   3) RHIZOCTONIA- Heritage (azoxystrobin 50% ai) @ 4oz/100 gal (30gm/100 L)

   4) ERWINIA- Agrimycin-17 (streptomycin sulfate 21.2% ai) @ 8-16oz/100 gal (60-120gm/100 L)

Pesticide drench timing is critical. Drench within the first 2-3 days of initial watering . Timing of the second drench should be made at 14 to 21 days. A third drench may be necessary 3-6 weeks after the second one (5-9 weeks from planting). *Always drench in the mornings or early enough for all foliage/runoff to dry thoroughly. Watch for leaf spot as leaves unfurl. Once leaf spot is observed, spray foliage to runoff with a selection of the following:                                                                    

   1) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 1- Champ II (copper hydroxide 37.5%) @ 32-64oz/100 gal (240- 479ml/100 L              

   2) BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT part 2- Dithane (mancozeb 75%) @ 32oz/100 gal (24 ml/100 L)

   3) FUNGAL LEAF SPOT option 1- Daconil Weather Stik (chlorothalonil @ 54%) @ 22oz/100 gal (165ml/100 L) option 2- Chipco 26019 26GT (iprodione @ 23.3%) @ 32oz/100 gal (240 ml/100 L) *DO NOT COMBINE FOLIAR COPPERS WITH ALIETTE OR OTHER ACIDIFYING PRODUCTS.               

Inspect Crop Weekly. Routinely scout for cleared or browning roots, leaf spots, etc. • ALWAYS WATCH FOR ERWINIA INFECTED PLANTS TO CAREFULLYROGUE & DISCARD. Re-drench per recommendations if root problems are discovered, up to a total of three times over the life cycle. Sanitation is critical, especially in multiple cropping programs where rot can progress without an obvious cause. Sanitize benches, floors, conveyors, pots, soil mixers, etc. between crops.

 

Insects

Control Fungus Gnats and Shoreflies due to their ability to spread bacteria and other diseases. Control white flies, aphids and thrips on an as-needed basis.If aphid or thrips are present, use aggressive control measures since they are capable of rapidly spreading various viruses. Watch for early leaf chewing evidence from larvae after sprouting. Most materials can safely be applied at label rates; beware of chemical incompatibilities described on label(s).

Calla for 6" or 1 gallon pots                                                                                                                                                 

Storage After Arrival

Unpack on arrival. Dispose of any soft rot and wash hands to avoid spreading the bacterial to healthy bulbs. Place in well ventilated trays at 65° F for a couple of days prior to planting. This will insure any possible friction wounds caused by transit are well callused before planting. For long-term storage (6 weeks or more) keep well ventilated at 45° F and a relative humidity of 80%.                                                                                                                               

Potting Medium    

Plant with 1 to 1 1/2" of medium over the tuber, rounded side down, sprouts (eyes) up. Pot sizes below 4 1/2" standard are more difficult to grow due to root volume restrictions (especially in clay pots). Suggested planting guide is one bulb per 4 1/2" pot and 2 bulbs per 6 1/4" pot. Additional care and management of fertility and irrigation are required in small or shallow pots because plants tend to be weaker, more easily stressed and, therefore more disease prone. The medium should be well drained, a pH of 6 - 6.5 and have good air porosity (optimal at 20% +/- 5%).                                                                                                                                                                        

Watering                                

Water management is critical. Keep pots moist but avoid excessively wet and excessively dry conditions. The first (within 2 days of planting) thorough watering should be a three-part preventative chemical drench. Then water sparingly until leaves unfurl. In week 3 or 4 reinoculate with a drench of Trichoderma and then a week later do a second chemical drench. Schedule these drenches to coincide with required watering to avoid overly wet pots.       

                                                                     

Light                                                                       

Calla can be exposed to full sunlight, unless the temperature in the greenhouse goes over 80° F, then some shading is recommended to avoid leafburn.

                                     

Fertilizer                                                                

Early fertility levels in calla, at the time of planting and extending two weeks, enhances overall long-term plant fullness and uniformity of vigor. A 10-20 day media incorporated pre-charge of nitrogen and potassium (no phosphorous in early pots) would be ideal.                                                                                                                                                                

Marketing                              

Market your pots with slightly less than one half the total number of expected blooms showing color or in spike. Ship long distances under refrigerated conditions (approximately 40° F or 5° C) to avoid excessive stretching. Retail under cool and bright conditions.        

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Agapanthus 'White'

Deciduous and evergreen tuberous-rooted plants with strap-shaped leaves. Clusters of white funnel-shaped flowers.

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Astilbe 'White (chinensis hyb)'

Where to Plant:

Choose a location that receives light to moderate shade. Avoid full sun.

How to Plant:

Astilbe prefer rich, well draining soil. Amend heavy soils with peat moss, perlite, compost, or course sand to improve drainage. Plant astilbe so that the crown is at the same level as the top of the soil. Make sure the holes are twice as wide as the plants and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the plants so that the roots are fanned slightly and pointing downwards, with the crown planted 1 to 2 inches below the ground level. Cover the roots with soil and press firmly.

Water:

Keep soil consistantly moist, but avoid over watering. Do not allow to dry out between waterings.

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Caladium Fancy Leaf 'White Queen'

Caladiums require a warm, moist soil. A minimum of soil temperature of 78-80 F is preferred. If planted too early in spring, cool soil temperatures will cause tubers to rot before they sprout. They can be started indoors in moist peat moss or potting soil in containers such as a shallow flat or flower pot. Barely cover tubers with soil and place the container in a warm germination room with bright light. Tubers should be started indoors approximately four weeks before planting outdoors.

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Clematis 'Gillian Blades'

Location

Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.

 

Soil Preparation

Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a

well-balanced liquid fertilizer.

 

Support

The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted

vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.            

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Clematis 'John Huxtable'

Location

Clematis and vines will require an area that will have at least a half day or more direct sunlight. The plant depending on the variety will grow upright six to twelve feet. Although it can only grow as tall as the trellis, arbor or support that you have given it. For example, if your trellis is eight feet tall and the vine you choose grows to twelve feet, it would simply hang over and grow down the other side.

 

Soil Preparation

Clematis and vines need a moist, well-drained soil. Prepare your hole at least one foot deep and mix 50% peat moss or well-rotted manure. Backfill hole with the amended soil and plant the vines so the top of the root ball is just below the ground level burying the first set of eyes. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, not wet, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a

well-balanced liquid fertilizer.

 

Support

The main stem of the clematis or vines must have a firm support, otherwise damage may occur through wind. As the newly planted

vine produces new growth this should be carefully trained and tied into position.            

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Convallaria 'Bordeaux Giant'

Where To Plant

For best growth, plant convallaria in well drainging soil where they will receive light to moderate shade. Amend soil with compost or
other organic material to improve drainage.

How To Plant

Plant roots so that the tops just barely poke above the soil. Water generously to settle soil around the roots.

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Dahlia Decorative 'Edinburgh'

Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.

Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.

Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.

Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.

Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.

Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.

Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.

Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.

For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.

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Echinacea 'White Swan'

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Geranium 'Biokovo'

How To Plant

Geraniums prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. Geraniums are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal. (5.8 - 7.0)

Mid Season Care

Shearing plants back to basal growth after blooming will improve their look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks. 

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Gypsophila 'Bristol Fairy'

white

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Hardy Hibiscus 'Luna Pink Swirl'

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Hosta 'Post It'

Soil and Preparation:
Plant hostas in well-drained, slightly acidic, soil (pH of 5.8 to 6.5). A high, “basic” pH of over 7.2 can change the leaf color.
Avoid planting hostas in a poorly drained location. Root and crown rot are prevalent in hostas planted in such sites.

Planting:
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root mass, usually about 6-8" deep. Once the hole is prepared, place the daylily upright, it into the space.
Holding it so the crown (top of the roots) is level with the surrounding surface, spread the roots out in the hole and loosely push soil over the roots.

Fertilization During Growing:
They do not require fertilization other than a yearly addition of compost unless a soil test shows a deficiency in nutrients.

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Iris Ensata 'Crystal Halo'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Ensata 'White Ladies'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil:

Best grown in damp, rich, acidic soil in areas with abundant moisture such as along water edges. Can tolerate times of standing water except in the winter.

Planting:

Plant rhizomes in spring or fall, 1 to 2 inches deep, and should be planted vertically with the growing tip pointed up.

If planting in a water garden, plants will not tolerate saturated soil or standing water over the winter. Plants can be removed in the fall, or try growing in pots, buried halfway in the ground so they can be moved to a dryer area over winter. 

 

Light:

Prefers full sun but tolerates part shade.

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Iris Germanica 'Purple with White'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Germanica 'White'

Planting

Bearded iris grow best in well-drained soil. Sloped or raised beds help ensure good drainage. Coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. The ideal soil pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic). Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. Insufficient sunlight will result in iris producing foliage, but no blooms. 

                          

When to Plant  

For best results, iris should be planted at least six weeks before the first hard frost in your area.  Establishing a good root system before the growing season ends is imperative.         

 

Planting      

Plant iris so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward into the soil. In very light soil or extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with a light covering of soil by be used to shade the rhizome and prevent scorching. A common mistake is to plant bearded iris too deep. Ideally, the tops of the rhizomes should be visible above the soil level.  Bearded iris planted 12 to 24 inches apart will require less frequent thinning. Watering in newly planted rhizomes will help settle the soil and encourage root growth.

 

Watering

Moisture helps establish root systems of newly planted rhizomes. Deep watering at long intervals is preferred to frequent shallow waterings. Unless the growing area is very dry, iris don’t need to be regularly watered. Over-watering is a common error.

 

Fertilizer

Use only a low-nitrogen fertilizer (6-10-10), bone meal or superphospate. A light application in the spring when springs bulbs such as tulips are blooming and a second light application about a month later is all the is required. Avoid the use of anything high in nitrogen. Over feeding iris with anything high in nitrogen will prevent the plant from producing blooms.

Growing Iris in Containers

Use a roomy pot with good drainage. Bearded iris need a one gallon pot or larger. Fill to one inch below the rim of the container with well-draining soil that is low in nitrogen. Plant rhizomes so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed. Water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. Over-watering will encourage rot.   Containers can be over-wintered outdoors, but protect pots from freezing by moving into an unheated garage or other unheated, protected location when sustained daytime temperatures are below 32F or nighttime temperatures are below 25F. In climates with harsh winter weather, sink the pot into the soil and cover with mulch. Divide and transplant iris every few years or as they begin overcrowding the pot.

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Iris Siberica 'Snow Queen'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Iris Siberica 'White Swirl'

Storage After Arrival

Storing iris is not advised. They should be planted as soon as possible. If they have to be stored, they should be kept in a cool area with good air circulation.

Soil

Best grown in rich soil, evenly moist areas such as along water edges. Well established plants can tolerate some drought.

Planting

Plant rhizomes 1 to 2 inches deep, and keep moist for 6 to 8 weeks. Best planting times vary by region - fall in the warmer regions and spring in cooler regions. Blooms best after a cold period in winter. 

 

Light

Grow in full sun but protect from hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.

 

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Liatris 'Spicata Alba'

Forcing Liatris - Preservation in Northern States

Outdoors the corms can stay in the ground and used as a perennial - indoors the corms cannot be preserved

 

Avg Time                 Avg Time                 Avg Plant Ht                              Climatic

of Planting              of Flower                 In.            Cm.                            Zone

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       3 and 4

May-June                 Aug-Oct                   20-30       50-70                       5 and 6

Mar-April                 Jul-Aug                    20-30       50-70                       7 and 8

Sep-Feb                   Jan-Jun                    20-30       50-70                       9 and 10

 

Depending on time of year & temperatures, flowering time can range from 12 to 24 weeks. Use size 6/8 as annual cut flower or

size 8/10 or 10/11 as perennial.

 

Forcing Time

Depending on the time of year and temperature, the forcing time can range from 8 weeks to 16 weeks.

 

Storage After Arrival

Limit storage to a maximum of 2-3 weeks at 45°F. DO NOT REFREEZE

 

Planting

Well drained soil enriched with compost such as a sandy soil or sandy clay soil, is most suitable. Plant year-round with 6 bulbs per square foot at 2-3" deep.

 

Light

If planting outdoors, choose a location in full sun. Indoor growing in the fall and winter should be done in a greenhouse with good light intensity.

 

Watering

Regular watering is essential. Liatris prefer consistently moist, but not soggy soil.

 

Fertilizer

After plants emerge a regular liquid fertilizer will help to make a stronger plant.

 

More Details

Lilies Asiatic 'Arbatax 16/18'

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!

Planting

In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:

1. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 50% (rate of 3/4 - 1 lb. per 100 gallons).
2. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 46.2% Flowable (rate of 20 ounces per 100 gallons).
3. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Domain Flowable 46.2% (rate of up to 30 ounces per 100 gallons).

For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

 

                Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot

    12/14 cm.               3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    14/16 cm.               1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    16/18 cm.               1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

Light

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.

Watering

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.

Growing in the Summertime

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Temperature

Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.

Ventilation

Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.

Plant Growth Retardants

Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.

Marketing and Storage

Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.

According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.

More Details

Lilies Asiatic 'Tiny Diamond'

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!

Planting

In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:

1. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 50% (rate of 3/4 - 1 lb. per 100 gallons).
2. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 46.2% Flowable (rate of 20 ounces per 100 gallons).
3. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Domain Flowable 46.2% (rate of up to 30 ounces per 100 gallons).

For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

 

                Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot

    12/14 cm.               3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    14/16 cm.               1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    16/18 cm.               1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

Light

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.

Watering

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.

Growing in the Summertime

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Temperature

Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.

Ventilation

Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.

Plant Growth Retardants

Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.

Marketing and Storage

Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.

According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.

More Details

Lilies Auratum Lily 'Casa Blanca 16/18'

Asiatic and Oriental hybrid lily bulbs used for cut flower forcing can be forced on a year-round basis by using a combination of precooled and frozen-in bulbs. The number of cultivars available is constantly changing. Generally, the asiatics force in 8-10 weeks. Oriental and auratum lilies force in 12-15 weeks and are available until June 30th.

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs immediately on arrival. If they must be stored, place them at 32-35 ° F. Storage at higher temperatures will cause desiccation of the bulbs which will result in fewer flowers per stem. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE.

Planting and Spacing

The planting medium should be sterile, well drained and have a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 with pH 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. If ground beds or raised benches are used, be certain to sterilize them and be sure they are low in soluble salts. Leaching may be necessary. They must be well drained. Bulbs for cut flowers can be planted in ground beds, 8-10" deep raised beds or standard pots. Plant bulbs with at least 2" of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

Suggested Number of bulbs for Cut Flower Forcing in Beds or Raised Benches:

 

                Asiatic Hybrids

                12/14 cm     6-9 per sq ft

                14/16 cm     5-8 per sq ft

                Oriental Hybrids

                16/18 cm     4-6 per sq ft

                18/20 cm     4-5 per sq ft

 

Support System:

Because of their length and variation in stem strength, some cut lily cultivars may need wire support systems. If used, be certain the netting has holes large enough to accommodate easy cutting and removal of the flowers. Also, place the netting over the bulbs directly after planting.

Watering:

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist but not wet.

Light:

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have low light intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. When very high light condition occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised. Extremely high light intensities can reduce the length of the cut flower.

 

Use 55-63° F (13-17° C) night temperatures and not higher than 70° F (21° C) day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Also, whenever possible, start Orientals at 59° F (15° C) for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65° F/17-18° C) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. Lastly, when seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F (20° C). Mulching of ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Ground or raised bed and shading are advised. Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

 

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

 

Growing in the Summertime:

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Marketing, Harvesting and Storage:

Forcers - as soon as the first flower has fully developed color, but is not open, the plants should be cut. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Whenever possible, lilies should not be stored.

More Details

Lilies Oriental 'First Romance'

On Arrival

After being programmed, forcers should be prepared to plant bulbs when they arrive. If they must be stored, place at 32-35° F. Forcers should always check to be certain the bulbs are not seriously damaged or diseased. Do not store for longer than 10 days. DO NOT REFREEZE!!

Planting

In all cases, the planting media should be sterile, well drained, have a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 with pH of 7.0 being preferred. Because some lilies can develop leaf scorch due to soil borne fluoride, the medium should not contain superphosphate or perlite. Dip for 30 minutes with one of the three following recommended formulas:

1. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 50% (rate of 3/4 - 1 lb. per 100 gallons).
2. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Cleary's 3336 WP 46.2% Flowable (rate of 20 ounces per 100 gallons).
3. Captan (rate of 8 pounds per 100 gallons) COMBINED WITH Domain Flowable 46.2% (rate of up to 30 ounces per 100 gallons).

For potted plants, use standard pots and plant bulbs so there is 2 inches of planting medium above the bulb nose. This is necessary to develop stem roots.

 

                Suggested Number of Bulbs Per Pot

    12/14 cm.               3 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    14/16 cm.               1-2 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

    16/18 cm.               1 per 6 inch (15 cm) pot

Light

Lilies require a medium to high Light (>2500 ft candle) intensity greenhouse, especially during the short days of winter. If shading was used during the summer, be certain to clean the glass thoroughly before winter. In most instances lilies respond to HID lighting during the winter months. This aids in reducing flower abortion and abscission especially with sensitive cultivars. Forcers who have lowlight intensity winters should seriously consider installing an HID lighting system for forcing cut lilies. Use light 4-8 hours per day. When very high light conditions occur (spring/summer), screening or shading is advised.

Watering

Water the planting medium thoroughly after planting and then keep the medium moist, but not wet.

Growing in the Summertime

It is very important that the stem roots are developed before exposing the lilies to warm summer temperatures. Keep the planted bulbs for 3-4 weeks at or below 65°F to allow the roots to grow. This can be done in a bulb cooler or cool basement. Bulbs that have a poor root system will flower unevenly and have a lot of bloom dropping.

Temperature

Use 55-63°F night temperatures and not higher than 70°F day temperatures. Avoid great fluctuations in temperature, because this can help to promote leaf scorch. Whenever possible, start Orientals at 59°F for about 4 weeks. Later, Orientals can be forced at higher temperatures (63-65°F) than Asiatics. In general, Asiatic and longiflorum lilies take 30-35 days to flower after they reach the visible bud stage of development and Orientals take 50-55 days. When seasonally warm temperatures occur, try to keep the soil and air temperatures below 68° F. Use shading when necessary.

Ventilation

Use a well ventilated greenhouse. Do not permit humidity to build up.

Fertilizer

The bulbs themselves contain lots of stored food, and they should be able to support the plant until the shoot emerges. Recommendations suggest withholding fertilizer until the shoot is 4-6" tall. Some growers incorporate a 10-6-4 slow release fertilizer in the medium prior to planting. Suggested rate is eight pounds per cubic yard. Use a liquid fertilizer such as 16-4-12 at the rate of 200 ppm to help deepen foliage color. If a preplant fertilizer has been added to the soil, then just use the liquid fertilizer every two weeks. A well fertilized lily tends to be shorter than an under fertilized plant.

Plant Growth Retardants

Height control is one of the more difficult aspects of pot lily forcing. Forcers need to rely greatly on their past experiences with the various cultivars and then decide whether or not to use ancymidol (A'Rest), Bonzi, Sumagic, or any other approved growth retardant. If soil drenches are to be used, split applications are usually best. Also, the pH of the medium needs to be about 7.0 to get the most effective response of the soil drenches, particularly for A'Rest. The first to be applied at shoot emergence, the second 10-14 days later. Foliar sprays can also be used. In addition there has been research conducted on preplant bulb dips. If EPA approved, forcers should experiment with the procedure to determine the best rate and length of the bulb dip to use for their forcing conditions and cultivars used.

Marketing and Storage

Forcers - plants should be marketed as soon as first flower begins to color. This insures that the consumer will receive maximum enjoyment. Care must be taken not to damage the unopened buds during marketing. Storage should be kept to a minimum. If they must be stored, place them at 35-40°F when the first flower is fully colored, but not open.

According to Cornell University trials a 50 ppm application of facination 2 days before storage will prevent leaves from yellowing.

More Details