Crocus - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Crocus - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Hippeastrum Southern Hemisphere 'Amadeus'
Christmas Forcing Amaryllis - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
Zantedeschia Aethiopica 'Aethiopica'
Calla Aethiopica - Pre-Order for Fall 2024
We carry 1055 plants that match your search request. We've included all matches below. Click on any plant to learn additional details.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Storage After Arrival Until Planting Time
Upon arrival, inspect the roots for any possible damage. Store the roots in the closed shipping container at 45-50° F up to 2-3 weeks.
Forcing Dahlia for Pot
Greenhouse Culture
The greenhouse requirements and general growth pattern of the Dahlia are quite similar to those of the Easter Lily. Dahlias begin to shoot
growth slowly and unevenly and will range from 1-2-3 or more shoots. DO NOT PERMIT MORE THAN 3 SHOOTS TO DEVELOP FROM THE CROWN.
Watering
After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Subsequently, for the initial 4-5 weeks keep the medium moist but not wet. After the shoots begin to
develop water should be applied directly to the medium. Avoid wetting the foliage whenever possible.Once the flowerbuds become visible, watering will
have to be more frequently and thoroughly. This is due to increased water requirements of the plant. On the date that A'Rest is to be applied as a
soil drench, the medium must be moist. Water the evening before and then apply the A'Rest the next morning.
Potting, Planting Medium, Spacing
Normally Dahlia are forced single in a 6" (15 cm) pot, either 3/4 or standard size pots can be used. Also either clay or plastic pots can be used but
plastic pots are preferred. Dahlia require a well drained, granulated medium. It should be sterile, have a pH of 6-7 and be low in soluble salts.
Because the application of A'Rest must be as a soil drench, the texture of the medium is critical. It should consist of equal parts of loamy soil,
a coarse aggregate, and peat. The organic matter should not be over 1/3 of mixture and the medium should not contain bark.
Light, Temperature & Ventilation in Greenhouse
Dahlia must be exposed to full sunlight throughout the greenhouse growing period. Dahlia should be forced at a minimum night temperature of 62-65° F.
Lower temperature will delay flowering. Day temperatures should be kept at 68-72° F. Higher temperatures if given for a prolonged period of time can
reduce the plant quality. To delay the development of the crop near the date of marketing, it is possible to lower the night temperature to 55° F,
conversely, the crop can be accelerated by forcing 70-75° F for a few days. Good ventilation is essential. Do not permit humidity to build up.
Fertilizer
Dahlia require continuous fertilization beginning immediately after shoot growth becomes visible. A complete (NPK) fertilizer is required. A slow release
(14-14-14) fertilizer applied as a top-dress can be used. Also a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer
The liquid feed can be used as a supplement to the slow release fertilization if needed. can be used.
Use of Ancymidol (A'Rest)
The only plant growth regulator approved for use in controlling the tuberous-rooted dahlia is ancymidol (A'Rest). For primary height control the
ancymidol must be applied as a soil drench no later than two weeks after planting. More precisely, it should be applied when the shoots are
approximately 1/4" (0.5 cm) long. At the time of application the planting medium must be moist! See variety list for use of A'Rest.
Pinching
Each variety will produce a range of single, double or multiple shooted roots to develop the maximum flowers per pot at the time of marketing,
and to provide better shaped plants, it is necessary that all plants which are producing only a single strong shoots must be pinched. It appears that
the best stage of development to pinch out the terminal shoot is after the 3rd or 4th pair of leaves have unfolded. Dahlia normally form 2-4
pair of leaves. A pinch at this time will force 2-4 lateral breaks to produce more flowers.
Cultivated Stock
All roots must be from cultivated stock, especially grown for pot culture. Do not use regular, uncultivated stock.
For Cut
Planting, Medium, Watering & Fertilizer
Use a well drained soil pH 6-7 and a low soluble salt. Plant in full sun. Plant the crown slightly above the soil. Do not split roots prior to planting. Place
dahlias in rows 2 feet on center, while the rows should be 2-3 feet apart. Dahlias are a water loving plant. In dry conditions be sure to add water to
allow for proper growth. Continuous feeding is required, beginning at shoot emergence. Use a weekly application of 200 ppmN of a 20-20-20 or a topdress
application of a slow release 14-14-14 fertilizer. Cut when petals begin to loosen. Dahlias can be cut with or without foliage. Keep in cooler at 40-45° F.
Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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Where To Plant
Bleeding heart will grow best in partial to full shade. Ideally, bleeding heart should have morning sun and afternoon shade for best flowering.
How To Plant
Bleeding heart prefer a well draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5), but will tolerate a pH up to 7.5. Apply compost or a general purpose, granular fertilizer in spring. Plant bareroot bleeding heart with the crown 1-2" below the soil line. If grown in poorly drained, wet soil, the crowns of the plants may rot. Avoid these soils and allow good air circulation.
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How To Plant
Soaking plants overnight or at least several hours prior to planting will do wonders for their growth. In the first year, keep them watered as needed. Do not plant too deep. The buds of the fern need to be just below the surface.
Where To Plant
Filtered shade is often the best, but many varieties can handle full sun.
Fertilizer
Do not use fertilizer on native plants. Fertilized ferns and wildflowers will look burnt and dried out but in fact it is a result of fertilization.
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How To Plant
Soaking plants overnight or at least several hours prior to planting will do wonders for their growth. In the first year, keep them watered as needed. Do not plant too deep. The buds of the fern need to be just below the surface.
Where To Plant
Filtered shade is often the best, but many varieties can handle full sun.
Fertilizer
Do not use fertilizer on native plants. Fertilized ferns and wildflowers will look burnt and dried out but in fact it is a result of fertilization.
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Forcing Schedule for Easter Lily Miracle
# Weeks
To Easter
25 Lily Bulb Production. Longi Miracle bulbs are dug, cleaned, shipped and in distributor warehouse by October-16th.
23 Earliest start of bulb programming is October 16th. But start NO later than October 25th (23 weeks before Easter)
20 Bulb cooling was completed by your bulb supplier at 35-36F for a minimum of 6-weeks (42-days)
17 Plant the bulbs in pots no later than 17 weeks before Easter: Bulbs are Case Cooled by Supplier
Pot & water in well then allow rooting in greenhouse at 60-62F up to 3 weeks. A HydraFiber® blend is recommended.
14 Roots should be visible by week 15 & shoots will emerge by week 14. Start fertilizing & keep moist.
13 1"-2" tall. RootShieldPlus at 8 oz. with OnGuard @ 1Qt./Gallon injected at 1:100 dilution ratio is recommended.
If RootShield Plus granules are incorporated in the growing mix then this treatment is unnecessary. Follow the label.
Start secondary bud initiation by dropping temps down to 45F for one full week to set the secondary buds.
12 2"-3" tall. Bud initiation coincides with stem root development. Run at 60-62F-day/ nights until bud set is complete.
11 3"-4" tall. Plant growth regulator applications should NOT be needed at all, unless they are grown very tight
Bud initiation nearly complete, maintain temperature below 65F until done.
10 Check for bud set, if good to go, increase to 65F. Keep greenhouse cooler if ahead of schedule.
9 5"-6" tall. Adjust temperatures as needed. Must now space the lilies to avoid stretching. Or use a PGR spray.
Only apply Fascination (10ppm) to lower leaves 7 to 10 days before visible bud if leaf yellowing is evident.
8 Check for aphids & root problems. Apply systemic or biological pest control sometime during weeks 10, 9, or 8.
Soil test & if leaf scorch is evident, use some calcium nitrate. Make sure to check the EC levels before application.
7 7"-8" tall. Lilies reach half of final height 42 days before sale. The Flower buds can now be felt.
If buds are visible on early plantings run 60F until finish.
6 35 days to sale. Buds to be visible no later than 30 days prior to sale. Grade for uniformity as buds become visible.
5 Buds 0.5" to 1" long. Re-apply Fascination (10 ppm) to lower leaves if necessary.
A late season Ancymidol spray of 33ppm (A-rest) can be applied to avoid stretching (necking)
4 Buds 1" to 1.5" long, some will start bending down.
3 Buds 1.5" to 2” long. If aphids present, use a total release smoke or aerosol.
2 Buds 2.5" to 4" long, some turning puffy white. Stop fertilizing just before sale & apply clear water once.
Cool lilies at 35-45F to hold. Prior to cold storage, you can spray Fascination (100 ppm) over the entire plant.
1 Palm Sunday. Shade lilies once removed from storage. If needed, use an ethylene type blocker prior to shipping.
0 EASTER
NOTE: This is a growing guide only, based on performance testing 2017-2018-2019-2020
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Storage Upon Arrival: store them in a cool, dry place for a short while. They may start to deteriorate from November onwards so it is best to get them planted before then.
Plant prep: Easily grown in medium moisture, with well-drained soils.
Light: Eranthis should be in full sun or part shade. Best in locations that enjoy full sun at the time of bloom, but acquire increasing shade as overhead trees leaf out.
Water: Easily grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils. Needs consistent moisture year-round.
Temperature: Eranthis thrives in temperatures around 60 degrees fahrenheit.
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Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
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Plant prep: These flowers prefer well-draining soil with a pH level ranging from 6 to 7.
Providing shelter from strong winds is essential as they have the potential to cause damage.
Light: Fritillaria flowers thrive when exposed to full or partial sunlight. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.
Water: While Fritillaria flowers require regular watering, it is important to avoid waterlogged soil. Aim for a moist environment that is not excessively saturated.
Fertilization: During the growing season, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Follow the instructions on the package and apply the fertilizer every few weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant period, and eliminate any weeds surrounding the plant.
Temperature: Can withstand various temperature conditions and are hardy in USDA zones 4-8.
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Plant prep: These flowers prefer well-draining soil with a pH level ranging from 6 to 7.
Providing shelter from strong winds is essential as they have the potential to cause damage.
Light: Fritillaria flowers thrive when exposed to full or partial sunlight. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.
Water: While Fritillaria flowers require regular watering, it is important to avoid waterlogged soil. Aim for a moist environment that is not excessively saturated.
Fertilization: During the growing season, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Follow the instructions on the package and apply the fertilizer every few weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant period, and eliminate any weeds surrounding the plant.
Temperature: Can withstand various temperature conditions and are hardy in USDA zones 4-8.
More Details
Plant prep: These flowers prefer well-draining soil with a pH level ranging from 6 to 7.
Providing shelter from strong winds is essential as they have the potential to cause damage.
Light: Fritillaria flowers thrive when exposed to full or partial sunlight. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.
Water: While Fritillaria flowers require regular watering, it is important to avoid waterlogged soil. Aim for a moist environment that is not excessively saturated.
Fertilization: During the growing season, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Follow the instructions on the package and apply the fertilizer every few weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant period, and eliminate any weeds surrounding the plant.
Temperature: Can withstand various temperature conditions and are hardy in USDA zones 4-8.
More Details
Plant prep: These flowers prefer well-draining soil with a pH level ranging from 6 to 7.
Providing shelter from strong winds is essential as they have the potential to cause damage.
Light: Fritillaria flowers thrive when exposed to full or partial sunlight. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.
Water: While Fritillaria flowers require regular watering, it is important to avoid waterlogged soil. Aim for a moist environment that is not excessively saturated.
Fertilization: During the growing season, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Follow the instructions on the package and apply the fertilizer every few weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant period, and eliminate any weeds surrounding the plant.
Temperature: Can withstand various temperature conditions and are hardy in USDA zones 4-8.
More Details
Plant prep: These flowers prefer well-draining soil with a pH level ranging from 6 to 7.
Providing shelter from strong winds is essential as they have the potential to cause damage.
Light: Fritillaria flowers thrive when exposed to full or partial sunlight. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.
Water: While Fritillaria flowers require regular watering, it is important to avoid waterlogged soil. Aim for a moist environment that is not excessively saturated.
Fertilization: During the growing season, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Follow the instructions on the package and apply the fertilizer every few weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant period, and eliminate any weeds surrounding the plant.
Temperature: Can withstand various temperature conditions and are hardy in USDA zones 4-8.
More Details
Plant prep: These flowers prefer well-draining soil with a pH level ranging from 6 to 7.
Providing shelter from strong winds is essential as they have the potential to cause damage.
Light: Fritillaria flowers thrive when exposed to full or partial sunlight. At least 6 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.
Water: While Fritillaria flowers require regular watering, it is important to avoid waterlogged soil. Aim for a moist environment that is not excessively saturated.
Fertilization: During the growing season, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Follow the instructions on the package and apply the fertilizer every few weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant period, and eliminate any weeds surrounding the plant.
Temperature: Can withstand various temperature conditions and are hardy in USDA zones 4-8.
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Plant prep: Plant 0 to 2 inches apart and 5 inches deep in the fall.
Light: Full direct sunlight and part shade is recommended.
Water: Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils.
Temperature: Galanthus prefers cool climates.
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Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
easy to grow for home garden producers, good storage
More Details
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting
Storage Upon Arrival: Store in well-ventilated containers kept at around 30°F (-1°C). Choose an area that stays at a 65–70 percent humidity level as well. Properly stored garlic will stay good for around 9 months. Refrigerating the garlic can kickstart the vernalization process. Avoid using airtight containers to prevent mold from growing.
Plant prep:
Choose a site with full sun and moist, well-drained, loose, and sandy conditions. Loose soil lets the bulbs grow easily without rotting from heavier and wetter soil or damaging the papery skin that protects the garlic bulb from rot.
Dig holes in the ground that are around 2 to 3 inches deep to plant your garlic cloves. Space holes 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, space each row 2 inches apart.
Plant the cloves 2 inches deep, placing each clove in its hole with the pointy tip facing up and the root end facing down. Fill the planting hole with soil and pat it down gently. Top with 3 inches of mulch and water lightly. You should see garlic scapes emerge in about six to eight weeks.
Light & water:
Keep in direct sunlight 6-8 hours of the day. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the first part of the growing season, and allow the soil to go dry for two or three weeks before harvesting