Hippeastrum Holland 'Picotee Petticoat'
Amaryllis
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Plant prep: Avoid planting in places that do not drain well to avoid soggy soil. Plant allium bulbs in the fall for late spring or early summer blooms. Plant them about 12 inches apart at a depth of 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb and water well.
Light: Plant Alliums in full, direct sunlight.
Water: Keep soil relatively moist, if the alliums sit in water for too long it will rot. An Allium is able to withstand long dry periods because of its water and nutrient absorbing roots.
Temperature: Alliums will grow steadily within 40-70 degrees fahrenheit.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpacked immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Ideal storage temperatures are 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting Preparation
Soak corms in room-temperature water for 4-6 hours prior to planting. Leave the water running at a trickle to increase oxygenation during soaking. Allow plenty of room for bulb expansion.
Planting in Zones 7 and warmer (Fall Planting)
Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil and that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. Adding organic matter of at least 2-3in will improve drainage. For fall planted anemones, it is recommended to remove plants from soil after harvest and plant a new/different crop in the same space for summer harvest. Plant bulbs 3-4in apart, 2-3in deep. Water after planting to encourage root development. Cover rows with frost cloth if temperatures drop below freezing.
Planting in Zones 6 and colder (Spring Planting)
Growing in Containers:
Fill a container with drainage holes with good-quality, well-draining potting mix. Leaving 3-4 inches between bulbs will allow plenty of room for growth. Plant about 2 inches deep. Water after planting to settle the soil around the corms and close any gaps. Once the danger of a hard frost has passed, place the container in a location that receives full to part sun all day.
Growing in Outdoor Landscape Beds:
About a month before last average frost, soak the bulbs 3-4 hours (but not more than 4 hours) in tepid water before planting outside in a well-drained location with full sun. Choose a location that receives general crop rotation and has well-draining soil that does not still puddle 5 or 6 hours after a hard rain. It is not recommended to use the same bed to grow anemones year after year without growing a new/different crop in the same location in between growing anemones.
Growing in Greenhouses:
Follow instructions for container growing. Ideal greenhouse temperatures are 45-48 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 58-65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be avoided as higher temperatures will affect growth and flower production.
Watering/Fertilizer/Growing
Begin watering once plants begin to grow being careful not to allow the soil to become soggy. Fertilizer is not recommended during the first month in order to protect the young roots. After the first month, fertilize once or twice during the growing season using a general 7-3-7 NPK fertilizer. In warmer climates, wait until foliage dies back before completely removing it from the soil. In colder climates, anemone are annuals and bulbs will need to be replaced each year.
Shading:
Using a 20-30% shade net is recommended. The netting helps to keep the soil cool, thus keeping the plants in flower production longer. The use of shading also will encourage the stems to elongate.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
More Details
Storage After Arrival
Unpack immediately upon arrival, ventilate if not immediately planted. Store at 58-65°F. Do not store with fresh fruit, vegetables or other ethylene producing products.
Valentine and Easter Forcing
Cooling
This is the most important step and can be done according to various methods:
For Valentine
1. Plant bulbs immediately upon arrival (approx. mid-September) in pots or flats. Place in cooler at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5-10. OR
2. Dry precool bulbs (not planted) at 480F until mid-October in pots or flats and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5. OR
3. Obtain "precooled" bulbs, plant in pots or flats approximately mid-October and continue cooling at 48°F. Bring into greenhouse January 5.
For Easter
After planting keep bulbs at 48°F until the roots grow out of the bottom of the container. When the roots show, drop the temperature to 41°F. Maintain this temperature until early January at which time, depending on sprout development, the temperature needs to be lowered to 34°F andheld until brought into the greenhouse. If no cooler facility is available, the bulbs can be planted outside under a 6" layer of sand and straw cover. This method is only recommended in the Northern states where outside soil temperature is cold enough to make it possible to do this.
Greenhouse Forcing
For Valentine - start in greenhouse January 10, grow at 58-65°F.
For Easter - start in greenhouse 4 weeks before Easter, grow at 58-65°F.
Planting
Plant bulbs outdoors so that soil is 4-6" above. the bulb nose (ndoor forcing, plant bulbs at soil level) Any commercial soil or soil mix can be used as long as it has good drainage and allows for undisturbed root growth. Soil pH level should be 6-7 and should have a low soluble salt level.
The following soil mixes have shown the best results:
Fafard #2, Fafard #3-B, Fafard #4, Metro 350, Metro 360, Metro 500, and Fison Sunshine #4.
Spacing
Use 40-100 bulbs per square yard - space bulbs about 3-6" apart. Exact spacing and planting depth depends on the bulb size.
Watering
Water every other day. Always make sure that watering is done directly into the container and not over the crop.
Fertilization
Fertilize in the greenhouse only - not in the cooler. Use calcium nitrate at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 gallons of water.
Height Control
Generally this is not a concern for Valentine forcing, however, for Easter a spray application of 500-2000 ppm Florel may be needed to control height or a drench with topflor when grown in the greenhouse. See Cornell Hort website for details and application rates.
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Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
Forcing Freesia for Pot
Potted freesia are basically experimental, but forcers are encouraged to determine how they will force and market under their conditions. The objective is to produce a marketable plant in 70-90 days from planting with an average total plant height of 10-20". These goals are not always achieved with the cultivars and treatments evaluated. Select principally pot varieties for pot forcing.
Storage after arrival:
On arrival, dip in Paclobutrazol (Bonzi) or Ancymidol (A'Rest) and plant.
Planting:
Plant corms 1" deep. Use 4-8 corms per 4" pot; 6-12 per 6" pot; 10-20 corms per 8" pot. Use well drained pH 6.5-7.2, fluoride-free sterilized planting medium.
Watering:
Keep planting medium moist, but not wet.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow, use 200ppn of 20-20-20 every other week.
Light Requirements:
Freesia require a medium to high light (>2500 ft. candle) intensity greenhouse.
Temperature:
Use a 50-55°F night temperature greenhouse. Avoid temperatures above 63°F especially during short days of winter. Forcing times range from55 to 100 days depending on the cultivars. Market plants when first floret begins to open. If plants need to be stored, place at 32-35°F but not for a long period.
Forcing Freesia for Cut
Availability:
Freesia are shipped from early September until March.
Storage after arrival:
The corms can be stored at 48-55°F for up to three weeks. Thereafter the spike may dry up too much if not planted.
Planting:
Plant either in flats or beds. A well drained soil mix is essential. This soil mix should be sterile at planting time with a pH level of 6.5-7.2. Plant 2" deep and use about 10 corms per square foot. Beds or trays will need to have wire mesh support facilities. Freesia should be planted in light intensity greenhouses.
Watering:
Keep medium moist, but not wet.
Temperatures:
Use a cool greenhouse (50-58°F). Avoid temperatures over 70°F especially during short days of winter. Cool growing temperatures will determine when freesia will bloom. Generally it takes approximately 120 days from planting to harvest first flowers. Once the flowering begins, flowering usually lasts 4 weeks.
Fertilizer:
After plants begin to grow use a liquid fertilizer every other week.
More Details
